Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

38-3 Tone/ AC switch rebuild done. (Photo intensive)
#1

Hi all,
I finished the refurbishing of the tone/ AC switch for my 38-3 the other night. The start photos are in the last part of this thread
http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=976

Anyway, the part that was broke, the spring that held the ball bearing, needed to be replaced. Some may have opted for a replacement but I was willing to try to repair it. The AC switch also had it's tabs broken off.
I had a NOS AC switch that fit perfectly onto the tone switch.

After getting the shaft off I seen where the broken spring was. Had to grind off just enough of the staked part of the shaft, holding the 3 parts on. There was still enough left to restake it back later.

I looked for a piece of spring steel that was the same thickness and found a wide paperclip. Cut a rough strip from the spring.

Marked the slot on the metal, then cut it with a dental burr. Squared up the corners a bit, but the slot was too loose, Cut another slot in the other end, this time it was really tight with no play.

The hole for the ball was made with another dental drill, carefully opening it up wide enough to hold the ball, but not let it go thru. Whether there was a ball retainer on the original, I don't know.

After some testing (I did find the ball under the chassis) I reassembled the shaft components. Everything lined up fine. Staking the end of the shaft was "iffy, but it did smash out and using a sharpened center punch I tapped the center for a tight fit. It might look bad but it is really tight. Tapping a little more to help get an even tighter fit.

Cut a slight amount from the AC switch bakelite, so I could use the original brass rivet on the switch. It stuck through enough to get a good riveting action, holding the switch tightly on.

The switch Ohmed out just fine and the AC flapper lined up perfect. It's now back in the chassis and waiting it's final test upon powerup later.
Recap is almost done. Thanks to Planagan for making me see that the actual switch for the tone was on the shaft itself. (rounded shaft)

Maybe these pics will help someone else if they get motivated to disassemble one of these or something similar, saving the original part.
Take care,
Gary.

EDITED>>>>>
NOTE These photos have expired from the photo host. However, if you need, I still have them on a disc.
#2

Wow, Gary...awesome work!

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#3

Gary, my hats off to you. I don't thing I would have tackled that job. Beautiful work. PL




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Zenith H725
David - I think I understand but what units are you discussing (Low of 1.7, high of 3.9)? Budget constraints for Ham ...EdHolland — 01:43 PM
My Philco 37-116 Restore
You're doing great. I wish I could be more involved, but my mind is right now preoccupied with the reason I am here in ...morzh — 12:21 PM
My Philco 37-116 Restore
Hope you guys are still with me. I have moved on to the alignment. I completed the IF alignment which was pretty muc...dconant — 10:47 AM
My Philco 37-116 Restore
Hello MrFixr55, Thank you for taking the time to explain. I measured 50 volts where you say. Today the 370 volts at ...dconant — 12:51 PM
462ron
Oh that sucks. It’s something easily overlooked. Hopefully it’s nothing more than a resistor! Ron462ron — 08:08 AM
Philco 46-480 Electronic Restoration
Just confirmed that you are correct. It’s the function generator. I connected the signal output probe to one of the inpu...jrblasde — 07:52 AM
Philco 46-480 Electronic Restoration
Ouch, you may be right. Yes, it is solid state. It’s the signal output of my oscilloscope. May be time to crack that ...jrblasde — 07:27 AM
462ron
If you didn’t put a DC blocking cap between the signal generator probe and the plate of the 1st IF it’s possible you ble...462ron — 07:07 AM
My Philco 37-116 Restore
Hi DConnant, The reason why C127 is isolated from ground is because sets of this vintage did not have the center tap...MrFixr55 — 01:07 AM
Philco 46-480 Electronic Restoration
The shield is on the 6H6. It was, in fact, a missing jumper to connect the main chassis ground to the RF chassis grou...jrblasde — 10:58 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 1023 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 1022 Guest(s)
Avatar

>