[codefox1]

Your set schematic here:
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...013336.pdf
Should be a very nice performer indeed. Nice work done so far, very nice.

Agreed, if coils ohm out OK, they're probably fine, and I wouldn't touch 'em Jury is still out on whether dipping them in wax was such a good idea in the first place. You shouldn't need to remove anything to do this, but if the schematic says so regardless of switch settings which are easily done, remove connection NOT on the coil so as not to disturb it.

Getting dial glass off, well I don't recall, but there seems to be a spring clip and there may be some dried out felt or rubber stuff between glass and holding bracket and/or between the inside bracket and chassis which may have by now turned into practically insoluble glue. If you don't absolutely have to remove it, don't. Someone more familiar with this set may have been there before. You do not want to break this glass.

[jerryhawthorne]

Codefox was kind enough to link the schematic. Item 18 is the coil in question and indeed it uses all six terminals. This is the oscillator coil. When measuring, you should get 4 that have very low resistance together and two that are also low. Just clip on to one of the connections and touch the rest of the way around. See if you get 3 others or 1 other. Then move to one of the ones that had high resistance, clip on that and see if you get one other or three others. Your looking for four that are connected to one another and two others that are connect together.
Hope that is not too confusing.
Jerry

[marty]

Hi All;
Sorry, If I might have created some confusion on my posting.. I didn't mean that you should rewind your coil, but, that it was possible, IF you needed to.. I agree that it is best to leave it alone, unless shown otherwise, by your ohm readings.. And even then, the last resort would be to rewind..
If Jerrys posting is a little confusing, clip one meter lead on one of the coils leads, or terminals and use the other lead and go arround the coil until you get a reading.. IF you do not get any reading, go to the next lead or terminal clip to it and use the other meter lead and go arround looking for its mate..Make a diagram of the coil on a sheet of paper with six little circles arround the bigger one representing the coil form itself and as you find what connects to what draw it out and show the resistance you find.. Eventually you should have two coils and one with two taps.. Hope my rambling make sense..
THANK YOU Marty

[37silverstreak]

The dial glass comes off, by removing the two screws on either side and then GENTLY working them loose. There are two rubber cushions that hold the glass in the metal channel. they may be melted to the glass and metal, the ones on my 190 were still in excellent shape. The wire springs hold the white backsheet in place. I cleaned the tuning condensor by soaking it in a bucket of Extreme Green parts cleaner for a few days then cleaning it with a toothbrush and rinsing in hot water, then drying with a blowdryer. I then used a small wire wheel on my Dremel tool to polish it. I polishe the IF and electrolytic cans with Mothers Aluminum polish. the chassis was extremely dirty when I got it and there was a lot of rust on the chassis. I used naval jelly to remove the rust and cleaned the surface with a Scotchbrite pad. I then masked off the chassis and painted it with Krylon Satin Nickel Metallic paint.
[Image: http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q500...330e8d.jpg]
[Image: http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q500...15fa32.jpg]
I didn't bother with restuffing the caps on this set, but I have done it on several other sets. I've started using beeswax to fill the caps, but hot glue works just as well. And yes, I replaced all of the resistors as most of them were out of tolerance by quite a bit. Hope some of this is useful to you in your project. Believe me it will all be worth it the first time you get it playing again, Have fun!!!!
Kevin

[marty]

Hi All;
Silverstreak, I like your Before and After pictures.. This gives the rest of Us some hope, when we have a chassis that looks like it is in terrible shape.. Great Job !!!!
THANK YOU Marty

[EricS]

Thanks for all of the info, guys! My plan is to leave the coil alone for now. I'll measure it tomorrow and see what readings I get. Given the closeup inspection, I suspect it is fine and only the wax has cracked. I've removed all of the paper caps and made careful notes about their connections. I haven't touched the electrolytic caps in the metal cans yet. Thanks to Codefox for linking the schematics.

Kevin, thanks for the details on the chassis cleaning and removing the tuning glass. I'll give the glass plate another try. I didn't want to pull too hard on it if I was missing another screw or connection point. The white backsheet is quite dirty and I'd like to clean it. Presume it is made of plastic, so it should clean up nicely.

I suppose I should replace all of the resistors as well. Upon closer inspection, the rubber coated wires on the underside of the chassis are mostly dried and cracked. Replacing the resistors and wires looks like it will be a long and tedious task. I think it will be worthwhile, though.

[EricS]

I spent some time cross referencing my paper caps with the parts list and found some interesting results. Of the 13 paper caps, 5 of them have part numbers that do not match the part numbers on the replacement parts list. The values of the caps all match, though. Anyone else notice this? I wonder what led to this discrepancy?

[marty]

Hi All;
What I have found is one of two possibilities, one is it is a later replacement and the number has changed or two that the value is the same, such as .01, but the voltage rating is different 100 Volt vs, 250 volts for instance..
On my Philco 34 one of the .01 had been replaced with a later part same value, different part number, If I remember correctly the rating was different..
THANK YOU Marty

[Raleigh]

A couple of questions about the mixer tubes in these chasses. I recently acquired a 40-190 code 121, which I haven't started working on yet. The chassis is still in the cabinet. But I noticed that the mixer tube, a 7J7 per the schematic, is a 6J8G, a tall ST style tube with a grid cap.

But in the 40-190 pics posted by 37silverstreak, the mixer is a loctal, presumably a 7J7.

In the 40-180 pics posted by EricS, the mixer appears to be the same ST type as in my 40-190.

I also have a 40-150 with a loctal 7J7 in that position. This is virtually the same chassis as the 40-180, so I would expect the same tube.

Anyone know what gives? Is this just a matter of Philco using up the stock of 6J8 tubes or compensating for a 7J7 shortage? I somehow doubt this was a running design change. It just seems odd that in a small sample we have two of each type of tube.

Splendid restoration, 37silverstreak, by the way.

[37silverstreak]

My 40-150 has the 6J8 ST style tube as well. must have been a production run change or something. Maybe the 6J8's were used in the earlier sets before the 7J7's were available?
Kevin

[Ron Ramirez]

It *was* a running design change, and it is documented.

The first 40-150, 155, 180, etc. sets used a 7J7 tube. Then Philco switched to 6J8G. Then they switched back to 7J7.

Don't know why. Maybe they ran into a shortage of 7J7 tubes and used 6J8Gs until they could get 7J7 tubes again?

[EricS]

I did manage to get the glass for the tuner plate off of the chassis. I put the blade of a flat screwdriver against the metal flange and gently taped it with with the handle of another screwdriver and it quite literally popped right off. It was quite clean and shiny under the flange! I was able to clean the glass and the white plastic sheet that goes behind the glass.

I'm still not really excited about the idea of re-covering all of the wires with heatshrink tube and replacing all of the resistors, so much of my time doing this was to help me get more familiar with the chassis and get used to the idea of a near total gutting of the chassis... I'll have to stare at it some more to work up the nerve to do any more

[fossilexpress]

Eric:
as you can see from my threads, I was in the same boat not long ago. I have replaced all the caps and put heat shrink on their leads. The old solder was a pain. Resistors I decided to wait on. Now that I am done for the moment, I am listening to it and it sounds really fine. So courage and go for it! BTW, I used fishing line leader to replace the tuning cord. Cost me nothing, since I had it around.

[marty]

Hi All;
It might be easier to just replace each wire instead of taking either one end or both ends off and putting heat shrink in the old wire.. Getting a roll of wire of your choice, period correct or not and carefully putting a new wire along side of the old one till you have it wired and soldered in then removing the old wire might be easier, in the long run..
Just a thought..
THANK YOU Marty

[37silverstreak]

Eric, It looks like a big job, but it's not really that bad. Start off working on an easy area of the chassis and take your time, you'll be surprised how fast it goes. I'd work on mine for about an hour or so until it started to get tedious or frustrating, then I would stop. As for replacing all of the resisitors, you don't have to. Check the resistors and see what they measure. If they are within 10 to 20 percent of tolerance and look okay you can leave them in if you want. I replaced mine because most of them had drifted quite a bit and I had new resistors on hand. Also, in my humble opinion, instead of sleeving the old wires with heatshrink tubing, i would just replace them with new 22 gauge vinyl coated wire. It just seems to be a lot more work trying to snake the heatshrink onto the existing wire to me. Modern wire available and not that expensive. again this is just my personal preference!
Kevin