Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Cabinet restoration questions / Philco 41-608
#1

Hi,
My first attempt so lots of questions.

I'm wondering your thoughts on using the product Howard Restor-A-Finish.
Which color choice would likely best match the original? I'm thinking that
Walnut-medium brown or possibly the Mahogony.

Do I go over the knob name decals with the product and does it remove or ruin them and would I then put new decals on and have to put some
sort of finsh over them to "seal" them on? They are quite dull at this point.

I'm not familiar with the artifical "photo finish". I think I see what areas are using this... the front surface of the speaker area which has those long
vertical wooden strips. These strips have some sort of horizontal streaks that must simulate a grain. I see this sort of look also above and below the glass dial. Are the two curved and grooved vertical strips on each side of the glass dial real wood?

What about the "inlay" (if that is the correct description) strip of wood or simulated wood, that is on each side of the cabinet about 5 inches from top? How does one handle this part when using the Restor-A-Finish?

One more thought is what is a good, safe way to clean and brighten the
plastic (bakelite?) station pushbuttons and other control knobs?

Thanks very much everyone!

Harlan
#2

Hi Harlan

I've used Howard's Restore-A-Finish before on some cabinets. For the 41-608, I believe you would need the Walnut color.

It will not harm any decals or photofinish.

There is a polish sold by Dremel, for use with a polishing wheel (white felt) Dremel attachment. Or you can try just plain toothpaste, a toothbrush, and a cloth, but this is better for cleaning prior to polishing. The Dremel polish, used with their buffing/polishing felt wheels, will make those bakelite knobs look like new.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Samlex heavy-Duty bench supply filter question
Hello Everyone, I have one of my Heavy-duty bench powersuplies made by Samlex it's 13.8 volt dc 20-25 amp supply. What I...radiorich — 11:24 PM
Looking for place to donate unique Philco Philco J-1930 Prototype
It's a Glaser Sears changer which Philco's engineers thought was an upgrade over a VM, but in retrospect I'd prefer the ...jeibner — 10:39 PM
AC/DC Transformer-less Sets
Joseph, Thank you for the confirmation. I knew that there must be more to the Transformer-less AC/DC radios than the ...PeterN — 10:30 PM
AC/DC Transformer-less Sets
Good evening, folks. Power station engineer here! The east coast had pockets of DC-only power well into the twentieth...jrblasde — 10:11 PM
AC/DC Transformer-less Sets
Model 40 does not have a rectifier, so it would be a DC only model. This however does not say anything about using...morzh — 08:01 PM
AC/DC Transformer-less Sets
I was wondering if anyone knows if these AC/DC transformer-less sets were actually used on 110v DC anywhere, and when. ...PeterN — 06:35 PM
Looking for place to donate unique Philco Philco J-1930 Prototype
Given the 1960s vintage, it is likely that the cartridge is ceramic, likely more stable. The changer looks like a Voice...MrFixr55 — 05:03 PM
Jackson 665 j2 schematic request
FIXED!daveone23 — 03:55 PM
Bakelite crack repair - what is best epoxy?
Thanks everyone. I appreciate you sharing your experience and looks like I'll work with the 24 hr two part clear epoxy....de371 — 10:25 PM
Jackson 665 j2 schematic request
Without a schematic its going to be hard tracing the wire wound spool resistors.daveone23 — 05:21 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 5254 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 5252 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>