Restoring my 37-116. It plays now!
Posts: 761
Threads: 56
Joined: Jul 2013
City: Kentucky
The holes get larger because that rubber shrinks over the years... If you are going to keep the radio, it's worth it to buy new bushings. The new ones are surprisingly thicker than the originals, which get compressed and shrink over the years. New ones will put your dial at the proper height in the cabinet. You can also go to the local hardware store and grab some rubber grommets or spacers and stack them on top of the old ones - kind of a crap shoot because you have to guess at the height.. but it might save you some money. The tuning capacitors usually need new bushings too.
The artist formerly known as Puhpow! 8)
(This post was last modified: 09-03-2013, 09:48 AM by Jamie.)
Posts: 15,835
Threads: 554
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
Yes I have a new bushing on the tuning cap - bought it from the "Renovated Radios". Along with some other spacers...maybe they will fit.
Those large silicon bushings are surprisingly soft. I wonder if they were in fact replaced at some point.
Question: the fact that all those bushings/grommets/spacers were on the volume / On switch shafts, it does not really mean that some actually go there, does it?
Posts: 761
Threads: 56
Joined: Jul 2013
City: Kentucky
I have not seen any Philcos with rubber bushings on the switch shafts. I would think that they were just put there for safe storage, so I would say no. Ron is the guy to ask to be sure. Those thick bushings for the front of the chassis seem to stay soft for some reason. The last restoration I did, mine were like brand new and I know they were original.
The artist formerly known as Puhpow! 8)
Posts: 15,835
Threads: 554
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
If those are silicon - did they even make silicon rubber back in those days? We are talking 30-s....
Posts: 15,835
Threads: 554
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
PuhPow
OK, by looking at Renovated radio comments I realized that the large ones are spacers and they were on the shafts for a reason - they indeed go around volume and tone control (in my case probably around Power switch and tone control) to keep the chassis from bumping against the front panel.
If they are put over the two metal posts on the sides you referred to, they will not touch anything - they are too high up from the support bars or from the front panel if put at the front posts.
So, two down.....some more to go.
Posts: 761
Threads: 56
Joined: Jul 2013
City: Kentucky
Well, thats good info to know.. I've never had the pleasure of working on a 116... On the few Philcos that I've restored, the chassis had a metal post on each side of the front... and the cabinet had two corresponding large holes on the backside of it's front panel. The large, soft bushings fit in there. I think one was even keyholed. Installing the chassis was actually kind of tedious because of this.
Got any photos of the ones that are left? I'll check youtube for any 116 videos that might help..
The artist formerly known as Puhpow! 8)
(This post was last modified: 09-04-2013, 05:29 AM by Jamie.)
Posts: 15,835
Threads: 554
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
I put all the photos here Monday, those are the only ones I have.
I was told also the some of them go on other shafts to prevent light from the bulbs from leaking through the front panel.
Posts: 15,835
Threads: 554
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
So I take it no one really knows for sure what kind of washer / bumper / baffle and in what quantity is used in what part of the cabinet.
OK.
Here's a simpler question someone might know the answer to: when putting the chassis in the cabinet, does the whole auto-dial lassembly stays put or do I need to remove the dial handle?
PS. If someone still feels like answering the washers question - would be great.
Posts: 7,288
Threads: 268
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
Don't have to remove handle just slide the chassis in. You may find that you will need to use some of the rubber parts to space the front of the chassis so the tuning assembly doesn't bind on the echuchon.
Terry
Posts: 15,835
Threads: 554
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
I tried that today.....obviously I do not see how it aligns (short of putting a mirror in front of the cabinet) and the chassis is heavy and not easily maneuverable (I am far from Heculean proportions myself) so I was not successful so far. I was wondering if that was the autotune handle.
Anyway, I think I will call Renovated Radios tomorrow and ask what he thinks: the guy who makes the bushings and washers should probably know what goes where.
Posts: 7,288
Threads: 268
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
Do you have the wood parts that fit onto the sides of the chassis??
Terry
Posts: 15,835
Threads: 554
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
No....what wood parts?
There is the chassis....there are two horizontal support bars in the cabinet....that's about it.
Posts: 7,288
Threads: 268
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
Methinks your missing the two wooden braces that support the chassis. Each is about 2 1/2"x 3/4x 15" long with 4 holes. Two of the holes (larger) fit over the two metal pegs on the of the chassis. The two small holes are for a pair of long machine screws to go though it and the brace in the cabinet. This also maybe where some of your extra parts go.
Terry
Posts: 15,835
Threads: 554
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
Terry
Could be.
I certainly did not get anything other than what I got. WHich was the chassis, the cabinet with the speaker and a plastic bag of goodies including screws and that dirty felt strip.
Could you point me to photos of those maybe or, if possible, take a photo of those you have?
I would hate to have to manufacture those.
Posts: 761
Threads: 56
Joined: Jul 2013
City: Kentucky
Sorry Morzh, I was out of town yesterday so I didn't have time to look into things. Check out this video. It's a 38-116, but I think it might be helpful.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrGvta4dEgg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WKy4ByfW-zQ
The first video gives a glimpse of spacers on the shafts and the second video discusses installation into the chassis.
The artist formerly known as Puhpow! 8)
(This post was last modified: 09-05-2013, 08:49 AM by Jamie.)
Users browsing this thread: 4 Guest(s)
|
Recent Posts
|
American Bosch Model 802 auto radio
|
Hello again;
I found a model 838 car radio on Nostalgia Air under United American Bosch, http://www.nostalgiaair.org/...Arran — 09:32 PM |
New Philco Repair Bench
|
Morzh is correct. The repair bench on our website is an archived image of chuck’s original site. He no longer provides s...klondike98 — 05:32 PM |
Made mistake & did not label connection
|
Excellent information. It is all starting to come together now and your explanation really helped since I noticed that ...georgetownjohn — 04:39 PM |
Made mistake & did not label connection
|
Hi John,
I don't have this radio, but I can supply some info:
Based on your pic, pins 7,8 and 1 are used together, go...MrFixr55 — 02:02 PM |
New Philco Repair Bench
|
As far as I know, the Repairbench does not work, and has not been working in a while.
Chuck (we had that campaign looki...morzh — 01:33 PM |
Radio city products 664 schematic request
|
Need a schematic or manual for the 664. The 663 may be similar.daveone23 — 12:38 PM |
New Philco Repair Bench
|
Thanks Gary.dconant — 12:16 PM |
New Philco Repair Bench
|
I tried accessing the site through our library and got the same response. It's reported to our tech gurus. GaryGarySP — 11:50 AM |
New Philco Repair Bench
|
I am sure this is the archive, and not the Chuck's site.morzh — 09:50 PM |
Made mistake & did not label connection
|
It's not like we are good friends with that wire and can tell it from other ptetty identical looking wires.
Why'n't you...morzh — 09:49 PM |
Who's Online
|
There are currently no members online. |
|
|