Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Trying to clean knurled knobs from 37-116
#1

I tried as we usually do it to mix a liquid dishwashing soap with hot water and soak the knobs and then scrub it with toothbrush.

Zero effect on that gummed up skin oil plus dust......it is lodged well.

A sharp object will take it out but I do not want to scratch the backelite.

Are there any solvents I could use?
WIll GoJo do it? I would use it but I do not know if it affects the backelite in an adverse way.
#2

No, GoJo is fine to use for bakelite knobs.

Set the knobs face down in the GoJo for a few minutes, then scrub with a toothbrush.
#3

Toothbrush and alcohol works for me. Bakelite is almost indestructible. Once you get them cleaned up, you can spritz them with some clear lacquer if you want to make them look brand new.

The artist formerly known as Puhpow! 8)
#4

See my post in the other thread about Simple Green.
#5

I used Goop (same as gojo) and an old toothbrush. Worked very well! I'm contemplating a light coat of lacquer as PuhPow recommended.
#6

I've had very good luck letting them soak in a heavy spray of furniture polish (Pledge). The grime seems to come right off with a toothbrush and the polish shines them up. Go-Jo or Goop should do well also, and any treatment might take more than one application. The sharpest thing I would try using as a last resort is something like a wood toothpick.

John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
#7

I did use toothpick, otherwise anything metal scratches it.
#8

I think I read somewhere alcohol is not a good thing to use on Bakelite like ammonia it can irreversibly dull the finish of the Bakelite. Some folks use shoe polish on them to get the shine back after cleaning with something too harsh. Easier and less toxic than lacquer. I bought a can a while back and was really surprised how much it cost. When I was a kid it was 10 or 15c at the drug store now it's like 3.50-$4 !!!!!
Terry
#9

Terry

Those 4 I tried initially to clean with Windex (and then you told me not to) do not look any different than the 5th one that I did not touch with Windex and only used GoJo on it.
All 5 are not exactly shiny but are OK.

PS. I hate laquers on things it is not intended to be on. Eventually it cracks and peels and scratches. Like those stainless steel fridges with "no fingerprints" because they aree simply covered with some varnish or laquer. It scratches and then looks worse than any smudged stainless steel which, BTW, you can clean in a jiffy with that cleaner they sell for it.
#10

After you have the knobs clean, try going over them with some metal polish. After you are done wash the excess polish off with soap/water.
#11

My elixir of choice is Krud Kutter, in the red container and soft toothbrush.

Chuck
#12

Quote:Those 4 I tried initially to clean with Windex (and then you told me not to) do not look any different than the 5th one that I did not touch with Windex
I've never tried Windex, but 409 cleaner severely dulled a set of Bakelite knobs on me a long time ago. Since then I've never had to go any stronger than a good soak with spray Pledge.

Agree with TA on the metal polish if needed. I had a pretty dull Motorola 56H and my (current) favorite metal polish (Satin Gloss) made the cabinet and knobs look like new.... I was impressed.

John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
#13

Hot water and a denture cleaning tablet like Polident works for me.

Mike Koste
Gobs of Knobs
Zucksville, PA
#14

I clean my knobs with steel wool and Dawn, using a tooth brush to get the crud out of the grooves. This dulls the surface but gets all the dirt and oxidized plastic off. Next I buff the knob with tripoli on my buffing wheel staying away from any knurled or fluted areas and being careful not to press too hard which generates heat and could melt the plastic.

After polishing with a soft cloth to remove the buffing compound residue I wax the knob with carnauba wax. Did this technique on over 20 radios with excellent results:

http://galleries.shacknet.nu/steves/gall...que-Radios

Steve D




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 46-480 Electronic Restoration
After a couple of days worth of troubleshooting my signal generator, I gave up. The oscilloscope still worked fine, so I...jrblasde — 09:51 PM
48-482 rear panel help
Yes, I can confirm. I bought one (haven’t restored it yet) which didn’t have a back panel.jrblasde — 09:37 PM
Need Help to ID this radio 11 tube Philco
Try a 39-116.Radioroslyn — 09:24 PM
Need Help to ID this radio 11 tube Philco
I remember Philco 45 being awkward. If I am not mistaking it for some other set. I think there is a phenolic board, or e...morzh — 08:49 PM
Need Help to ID this radio 11 tube Philco
If you want a radio that's difficult to work on, get a 37-620. The one side of the chassis is packed pretty tightly and ...Greg — 07:29 PM
Need Help to ID this radio 11 tube Philco
Philco 16 is not intimidating at all. Despite being an 11-tuber. 37-116 is indeed intimidating. 16 has good space unde...morzh — 04:11 PM
48-482 rear panel help
Thanks for the responses Gary and Bob. I'm a little surprised that there's no back panel - although I know older Philco'...keithchip — 04:09 PM
48-482 rear panel help
Gary is correct, there was not a rear panel on the 48-482. I restored one of those and its a great sounding radio that ...klondike98 — 03:24 PM
The list of my radio & TV collection!
A little light positivity in our feed... To nostalgic retro music... With English subtitles My new video on the contin...RadioSvit — 02:14 PM
My Philco 37-116 Restore
Ron and Mike I mentioned a 2 meg resistor not on the schematic. I stumbled on a changes note in Riders that mentioned th...dconant — 12:02 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>