Posts: 1,562
Threads: 56
Joined: Nov 2008
City: Sedona, AZ/Placentia/CA
Yes, a 500 mile drive but the new owner of a fada 46. Same family since new and other than tube changes untouched. I new the tuner was frozen but had to see what I could do. Yup, really frozen. Pictures attached. Will take me some time to figure out how to get that dang thing taken apart. Here are some pictures.
Jerry
[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129.../fada4.jpg]
[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129.../fada3.jpg]
[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129.../fada5.jpg]
[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129.../fada1.jpg]
Anyone with experience on this radio, love some help on disassembling the front off the tuner.
Jerry
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
Posts: 4,708
Threads: 51
Joined: Sep 2008
City: Sandwick, BC, CA
It obviously came from out East, I see that the second scale has call letters written on it and all of them start with a "W". Hopefully some penetrating oil will help free it up, I can't see the hubs holding the rotor plates but the frame of the tuning condenser is at least made out of steel. It's the rotor hub that fails in Majestic tuning condensers, they crack and can warp causing them to jamb.
I hope that the eventual sale price reflected the fact that the dial mechanism is frozen? It's a crap shoot sometimes when it comes to pot metal, as I said before it can range anywhere from minor repairs to a major operation reproducing new mechanical parts. I don't know the extent of the pot metal issue in Fada sets of this era, at least it isn't like a Crosley Jem box where the entire tuning cap can turn into unusable junk.
Regards
Arran
Posts: 1,562
Threads: 56
Joined: Nov 2008
City: Sedona, AZ/Placentia/CA
Arran thanks for your comments. Yes, NY call letters. The flash tuner as far as I know was only set up for NY stations. It is basically little more than a "microswitch" on the plastic dial that has indents on it to trigger a light when the tuner reaches a NY station. The radio was sold the the great grandfather of the people I bought it from and indeed in the NY area. It will be a challenge to try to get to the tuner with all the stuff in front of it and see what I can figure out.
Regards, Jerry
PS: Arran, don't worry about the price, at my age, I don't worry about things like that. It's a hobby.
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
(This post was last modified: 09-29-2013, 02:20 AM by jerryhawthorne.)
Posts: 481
Threads: 18
Joined: Jan 2013
City: Mesa, AZ
Hit 'er with PB Blaster at the pivots, let it sit a good while, spray it again, then maybe very lightly rap it with a prod in strategic locations carefully, if possible, put some more PB on 'er and try to work it back and forth. Works most of the time on rusted automobile related parts for me. Heavy duty stuff. That'll be a Deusey of a radio when you're done!!! SWEET!!!
Posts: 1,463
Threads: 97
Joined: Jul 2012
City: Poughkeepsie, N.Y.
Nice radio good luck with it. Rarely see a Fada radio for sale. And it was made in my neck of the woods!
Posts: 761
Threads: 56
Joined: Jul 2013
City: Kentucky
That cabinet is a work of art. It will be a fantastic radio when you get it finished.
The artist formerly known as Puhpow! 8)
Posts: 2,026
Threads: 367
Joined: Jun 2010
City: Dover, OH
That radio looks great! I just hope the pot metal problems aren't too bad. Erm, is it me or does the speaker frame look like it is built of pot metal? I saw a late 20's Fada that actually had a pot metal speaker frame a few years back.
No matter where you go, there you are.
Posts: 1,562
Threads: 56
Joined: Nov 2008
City: Sedona, AZ/Placentia/CA
Jayce, I have not looked at the speaker much other than blowing off years of dust. The cone itself shows some warping something to look in to in the future. Perhaps a little light spray of water on it might have it relax a bit? Hard to see in the picture of it. A fairly rigid spider on it so hopefully the voice coil is well centered. Time will tell after I solve the tuner problem.
It has had repeated applications of pbblaster and a few light taps, no joy yet. I will be patient.
Jerry
PS: This radio came down through the Fulco family. A family of 6 all of which are musically very talented. There house was filled with recording gear. To bad the radio wasn't a Philco or I could have obtained the Fulco's Philco!
Link to the family:
http://www.meetthefulcos.com/Videos.html
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
Posts: 4,708
Threads: 51
Joined: Sep 2008
City: Sandwick, BC, CA
Perhaps price is not really a concern but the last thing you want is to have a lot of money tied up in a set that may need major repairs. Now the reason the tuning condenser is stuck may be nothing major caused by hard grease or whatever, but then again it may be due to swollen or warped pot metal This is why I hope for the best but anticipate the worst when it comes to radio shopping.
Regards
Arran
Posts: 15,839
Threads: 554
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
Jerry
Have you tried to see if the frozen part is in tuning cap or the gear that drives it? From the pictures (and they do not have fine details) I cannot see the space for a really complex pot metal box there, so hopefully the ole liquid wrench will do the trick, but of course Arran is right and you do want to do first things first and make sure you are not spending time and money on something that will not be easily restoreable.
Posts: 2,353
Threads: 92
Joined: May 2010
City: Clayton, NC
Spray the heck out of it with de-oxit. Or even WD-40.
Posts: 1,562
Threads: 56
Joined: Nov 2008
City: Sedona, AZ/Placentia/CA
Well, looks like there are 3 bearings involved in the mechanism. Two supporting the variable cap itself, one on each end and one holding the knob shaft. I do believe this is going to be a fun project and will require complete removal and teardown . Yes, it will take a considerable amount of time. It seems all three bearings will need to be cleaned. Here is a link to work being done on the same chassis and should prove helpful. All parts now rotate but require extreme effort.
Regards, Jerry
http://www3.telus.net/radiomuseum/projec...index.html
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
(This post was last modified: 09-30-2013, 02:53 PM by jerryhawthorne.)
Posts: 1,562
Threads: 56
Joined: Nov 2008
City: Sedona, AZ/Placentia/CA
Just an update: I finally with good light and my reading glasses saw a very small c-clip on the shaft of the tuning knob! Removed it without it flying in the air as most do and with some light heating and careful taping from a little hammer, got the dang shaft out. Didn't take long to ream out the pot metal bearing to being round and all is well. Well, other than that, I still can't get that blasted casting out. Yes the pot metal has expanded to such that it will not come out. Looks like some careful dremmel work coming up to cut 1/32 off of one side of the chassis opening to allow removal. Not brain surgery but should be fun. I need to get that removed to get to the tuner bearings which looks like removal of the rotating wipers and pulling the whole shaft out to get to the bearings. Hope you smart guys and gals are sticking with me. This should be fun. More fun getting the V/C back together and aligned.
Jerry
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
(This post was last modified: 10-01-2013, 03:42 PM by jerryhawthorne.)
Posts: 1,562
Threads: 56
Joined: Nov 2008
City: Sedona, AZ/Placentia/CA
I will continue to work on this radio but seems unfair and cumbersome to have threads on two forums. It will continue on the "alternate" forum as to a larger audience and some people who have worked on this chassis. It is too confusing to all when answers are coming in on different venues. I most respect all of you here and am always looking to help when I can (seldom). If anyone wishes to follow my trials and tribulations, here is a thread to it. I will always be on this, the Philco Phorum and watching.
Regards, Jerry
http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopi...6#p1949236
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
|
Recent Posts
|
38-10T chassis Restoration begins
|
Thanks for the info guys. I always wondered why the use of mica. Now I know.dconant — 01:52 PM |
38-10T chassis Restoration begins
|
Most common plastics have a dielectric constant in the 3-4 range whereas mica is around 6. This means that even if you w...Steve D — 01:46 PM |
38-10T chassis Restoration begins
|
It is acceptable but not desirable.
Plastic is not an approved cap dielectric, and even though a reasonably thick piece...morzh — 11:52 AM |
38-10T chassis Restoration begins
|
I have a question about the mica sheets. I thought I saw somewhere on the Phorum where someone used thin plastic report ...dconant — 10:44 AM |
38-10T chassis Restoration begins
|
Yes, you should carefully remove the mica sheets from the trimmers otherwise you risk trapping foreign material in the t...RodB — 10:34 AM |
American Bosch Model 802 auto radio
|
Hi Joe, Thank you again. The American Bosch Model 634A has the same tube lineup as my Model 802 and the parts layout dia...Antipodal — 03:09 AM |
38-10T chassis Restoration begins
|
hello everyone,
I know it has been a while since I have posted about this radio but finally got chance work on it .
I ...radiorich — 02:45 AM |
Rusty Tuning Condenser
|
You could soak the fins in vinegar. You have to be careful if any pot metal is involved because the vinegar will dissolv...RodB — 09:20 PM |
Rusty Tuning Condenser
|
Hello, I have a Philco 91 where the tuning condenser fins are rusty. I magnet sticks to them so they can't be aluminium....dconant — 05:50 PM |
American Bosch Model 802 auto radio
|
I’ve found six United Bosch auto radio’s with the same 6-tube line-up as the 802, on NostalgiaAir. They are models 150, ...Joe Rossi — 02:52 PM |
Who's Online
|
There are currently 3335 online users. [Complete List] » 2 Member(s) | 3333 Guest(s)
|
|
|
|