[Jamie]

That's the same thing I do. I had a small can mixed at Lowe's. Same as Bob.

[Ron Ramirez]

Regarding the band switch knob, the Renovated Radios repro is for 1937 and 1938 models.

Notice it says 1937: followed by several different partial model numbers. He did it that way, I think to keep from repeating 37-11, 37-116, 37-610, etc. You are correct, the original knob was round and black (not brown, or even dark brown).

[Geoff]

Thanks Ron!

[Geoff]

I paint the speaker cutout edges by hand with a small brush and artist acrylic paints. A mix of black and burnt sienna makes a nice dark brown.

It's water based and any excess is easily wiped off with a damp cloth.

Once it's dry, you can spray lacquer over it with no problems.

Thanks for the advice Bob, I'll go that route. I like the idea of using a water-based product in that application. Makes for easy clean-up in case of mistakes.

BTW, I love watching your videos on YouTube. I have a Predicta Pedestal that I'll be working on someday and picked up a lot of good tips. I also watched the video where you filled the grain on the Philco chairside. Lots of good information. Keep up the great work!

- Geoff

[Bob Andersen]

Thanks. I'll be posting another cabinet restoration video soon. I expect it'll be the last cabinet this year.

[Geoff]

I applied grain filler to the sides and top today. I decided not tu use sanding sealer first. That Pore-O-Pac grain filler was really something elese. What a mess! The Behlen video on YouTube makes it look so easy when it shows them stirring the contents in the can. For me, the solids were really SOLID. I tried stirring, and stirring, and stirring but I could not get it to mix well with the the liquid that was in the can. I ended up just scooping out some of the stuff and placing it in a cup and then adding mineral spirits and mixing until I got the consistency I wanted. I think I actually made it a little too thick because it started to dry as soon as I applied it. A few strokes with the paint brush on the cabinet and it started to become almost unworkable. Next time I'll make it a bit thinner. I then scraped off the residue with a plastic putty knife that had a nice straight edge and let it set up for a little bit and then wiped the cabinet down with burlap that I bought at Jo-Ann fabrics.

Anyway, here are the results on top. Here is a photo witht the flash on:

[Image: http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m533...40/065.jpg]

Here is one with the flash off:

[Image: http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m533...40/064.jpg]

Here are the rest:

[Image: http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m533...40/066.jpg]

[Image: http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m533...40/077.jpg]

[Image: http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m533...40/078.jpg]


I did find a spot where the grain did not fill all the way:

[Image: http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m533...40/079.jpg]

My plan now is to let this dry overnight and then lightly sand. I would like to use 320 grit but I'm all out. All I have is 500. Anyone see any issues with using 500? Once sanded I plan on applying another coat of grain filler, but this time with a little thinner mixture.

Should I grain fill the columns as well? I think this is a harder wood and doesn't have an open grain but would like to know what others would do. Once the sides and top (and maybe columns) are done I plan on masking things off so I can hit the front with a coat of sanding sealer, then lightly sand, then grain fill the front.

And by the way, don't use a plastic cup when mixing the filler. I used one of those red Solo cups and the bottom dissolved.. I should have known better...

[Image: http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m533...40/080.jpg]

- Geoff

[Bob Andersen]

Looking good Odd, I use red Solo cups all the time. Maybe the solvents in the Pore-O-Pac are different than Constantines ? I'd apply more grain filler before bothering to do any sanding.

[wireless]

Coming along nicely !!

[Bob Andersen]

Oh as for the hardwood trim. I used a few coats of lacquer sanding sealer with sanding between on mine. The sanding sealer has more body than regular lacquer and will fill in minor voids pretty quickly.

[Geoff]

It’s been awhile since my last update. Been too busy with work and family but finally found some time last weekend. I bought some 320 grit sandpaper. I have a very nice small sanding block that came as part of a kit I bought at Harbor Freight some time ago. Here is the kit and the sanding block:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

The sanding block is the perfect size for sanding flat surfaces on a tabletop radio.

As I was giving the cabinet one last look-over for imperfections I came across a couple of areas in the grill where there were small pieces of wood missing on the inside surface. These were easily patched with wood filler. Here they are before sanding:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

I still needed to use grain filler on the front and add another coat to the sides. My big concern with the front was that I did not want the grain filler to stain the wood and have it come out too dark. As a test, I lightly sanded two areas on the top/front that grain filler had previously been applied to see how deep the staining effect went. In short, after light sanding the staining effect was removed with the 320 grit sandpaper. Here is a before and after of the top/front edge:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

Here is a before and after of the top/left front:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

Even though this was easily sanded off I decided to go ahead and spray the front with Deft sanding sealer, just to be safe. Here is the front taped off and ready for sanding sealer:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

Here it is after two light coats of sanding sealer:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Geoff]

Here it is after the tape has been removed:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

The front surface is a little rough after spraying. My next step will be to light rub the front with #0000 steel wool to smooth it out a bit. I will then go over the entire cabinet with grain filler which will make a total of 2 coats for the top and sides and one coat for the front. After I rub it out with burlap I’ll see how things look. If it needs another coat of grain filler I’ll do it again. Once I’m happy with the front I will lightly sand it with 320 grit sandpaper to remove the staining effect. Since I used sanding sealer on the front I believe the staining will not penetrate the wood.

I’ve already purchased the two toners I will need. I bought one can of Mohawk Medium Brown for the front (M100-0207) and one can of Extra Dark Walnut for the top, sides, and columns (M101-0209). Luckily, there is a Mohawk distributor 15 minutes from where I work. They have EVERYTHING that Mohawk makes. The company info is:

Wood Repair Products
616 N. Eckhoff
Orange, CA
http://www.woodrepairproducts.com/

I still need to pick up some Mohawk Blender Flow-Out before I spray the toners (forgot to pick it up on my last trip). Per previous recommendations this may come in handy if I get a dust nib or something that lands on the finish while it is still wet. The advice it to carefully remove the dust nib (I’ll probably use tweezers) and then light spray the Flow-Out to blend out the imperfection.

Last, but not least, I plan on using Deft Gloss Lacquer for the final coats. I was very impressed with the Deft sanding sealer nozzle. It gives you the option of spraying in two different fan patterns. I wish Mohawk would improve their nozzles. I’m assuming the Deft gloss lacquer will have the same type of nozzle.

I’ll post more updates as I progress.

- Geoff

[Jamie]

Geoff, be very, very careful with the blender flow out. All it takes is a tiny spritz to fix a bad spot. If you spray too much, the lacquer will craze and you'll be stripping again. It's great stuff, but I feel like I gotta warn you. I've made that mistake, no sense in it happening to you too. I do agree that Deft uses a better nozzle, but I think Mohawk clears are easier to use, not as prone to running, and look the same in the end. That's just my opinion.

[Geoff]

Thanks for the tips. I'll be sure to go easy with the Blender Flow-Out if I need it.

Mohawk offers different nozzles that you can buy and when I go to get the Blender Flow-Out I'll see if they have the nozzles.

[Geoff]

I went over the entire cabinet with grain filler again which makes a total of 2 coats for the top and sides and one coat for the front and columns. After letting it dry for 24 hours I went over the entire cabinet with 320 sandpaper. Here a picture of the front without and with the flash. When I took these pictures I had not sanded the right side of the front panel yet.

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

Here are some pictures of the top and sides. And in case anyone is curious, no, I have not sanded through the veneer. There is one location where the veneer is sanded through on the left about 1/3 down from the top, towards the front edge. It was like that when I stripped it and appeared to be done by the original cabinet maker (as mentioned in one of the above posts).

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

I think I’m all done with grain filling. Everything feels pretty smooth and I do not see any areas of unfilled grain. However, I may hit just the front panel with sanding sealer once more and then sand just make sure. I still need to sand the bottom trim on the front and sides.

So here is a question. For filling grain you use grain filler. Or, multiple coats of sanding sealer, sanding between coats until the grain is filled. If I apply another coat of sanding sealer to the front and then sand it down, am I supposed to sand back down to the wood again, leaving sanding sealer in the grain or are you just supposed to sand it until everything feels smooth, leaving a thin layer of sanding sealer across the entire front? In the pictures above I took it down to the wood again.

- Geoff

[Jamie]

I don't know the answers to your questions. Did you sand the cabinet after you grain filled? If so, I don't think you should have done that. The cabinet looks great though.. I'm keeping up with your thread