Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 16B Restoration
#1

Hi, a Philco shouldered 16B, code 125 tombstone landed on my workbench in need of restoration. I'm quite certain it is a Code 125 variant once I found a circuit etc. Tested and found all the tubes to be OK. There was a Type 37 fitted in the OSC socket so I replaced it with a spare 76 I had. The chassis is pretty much dead so I got the power supply up and running OK. Now for the fun bits.. There is no sign of any station signal on any band. I noticed that there is a wire coming from pin 3 of the RF 78 that is floating and not connected anywhere. I followed the circuit and all the 78 Grids are connected as indicated on the circuit. So I have a mystery wire. Connected a sig gen to the grid of the first DET and swept across the IF centre frequency and it appears to be peaking at around 440Khz... So the alignment may be a little off. BTW the OSC appears to be working..

I'm at a stage where I need to resolve the mystery wire issue. It would be appreciated if anyone has an under chassis photo of the wiring around the 78 RF section so I can compare with mine...

Also, is it a must to deal with the Philco Block Condensers?

In the mean time I will look for other issues.

Any help appreciated
Regards
Rob
#2

The Bakelite block condensers have paper condensers inside of them, they were commonly used in Philco sets from about 1930 through 1936 and were slowly phased out in favor of the more usual tubular types till just before the war. So the newest ones are now over 70 years old and pretty much have to be replaced. The Bakelite blocks also act as terminal strips so they pretty much have to be cleaned out and restuffed with new condensers, or replaced with a terminal strip, sort of six of one and half a dozen of the other. Some on here are very good at restuffing them, they can undo the screw, flip the block over, remove the old condenser, and replace with a new one, all without disconnecting most of the wires.
While you are at it I would check all of the old carbon composition resistors, any that are more then 20% out, replace them.
Regards
Arran
#3

Hi Arran,
Thanks for the tips.. all block caps done now..

Regards Rob
#4

Found some additional info on the WWW and proceeded to rebuild all the Philco Block Condensers and replacing out of tolerance resistors as I went along. Quite a lot of R's had drifted high well over 20-30% and some were double their value.
The radio is now receiving stations on the broadcast band after doing a quick IF alignment but not very loud at full volume. So I may still have an issue somewhere.

The RF alignment requires tweaking a hexagon nut which is down below the surface of the can.
Just wondering if it's OK to use an appropriately sizes tube spanner on these nuts?

The shadow meter starts narrow and widens as the set warm up but it will not open and close when changing stations. Coil is OK and vane moves freely. Plenty of Web info suggesting that it may be related to signal strength, weak tubes or improper alignment. Have decided to leave it alone till I work out how to do the RF alignment.

Cheers
Rob
#5

I found a suitable Hex tool to adjust the IF's and other trimmers and proceeded to do a full alignment as per the service sheets. All I can say is that the settings were way off.. The radio now booms in loud and clear with only a short aerial of a few feet. The shadow meter also worked better after the full alignment. Another project completed and satisfied owner.




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Testing a speaker and output transformer Trutone A2-G
Would an output transformer if weak, cause the problems I am seeing with lower B+ voltage? murfmurf — 01:22 PM
Testing a speaker and output transformer Trutone A2-G
Hello murf! I merged the threads. Please do not start new threads regarding the same radio. Take care, - GaryGarySP — 10:21 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Regarding picture 5 on page 1 of this thread this capacitor is #40 on scematics diagram - 4mF+4mF. Black wire is "-...Vlad95 — 09:01 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
That's a dual 4 MFD, red and green are both 4mfd and black is common negative. You should be able to see them in the pow...RodB — 08:58 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Can anyone help me figure out a capacitor that has 3 wires coming out of it red and green on one side and a black wire o...osanders0311 — 08:14 PM
Two small radios from France. Restoration and review.
Greetings; I think that it's possible that the assortment of components was the result of post war parts shortages, a...Arran — 12:18 PM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
Unfortunately I can't inject any audio into the volume control. It is in the primary circuit of the antenna coil, not in...Stormlord5500 — 09:32 AM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
Sounds good Gary I'll do that. I have plenty of stuff like that I can scrounge up. I am still kind of new to all this so...Stormlord5500 — 08:47 AM
Philco Battery-WWII vintage
Seems to me that this a general purpose or radio filament 6V battery of very high amp-hour capacity and very high "...MrFixr55 — 08:08 AM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
You should be able to inject an audio signal such as from a CD or mP3into the radio at the volume control. The set will...MrFixr55 — 08:14 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 163 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 162 Guest(s)
Avatar

>