[Geoff]

I think it will. The last part of the process is rubbing out the finish. Since I'm going to strip it anyway I used the opportunity last night to practice different techniques. Different grit papers, steel wool, rubbing compounds, etc.. I don't want to say that it will be smooth sailing from here on out but at least I have a better grip on the refinishing process than when I started. It's starting to be a race with the weather too. Where I live in Southern CA to daily high is predicted to be in the low 70's for the next 6 days so I need to get moving before it gets too cold to spray. Humidity is not an issue. Stay tuned.

[Geoff]

I finally had a chance to apply the toning lacquers again. I used Perfect Brown for the front and Extra Dark Walnut on the rest. Here are some photos:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

One problem I have is on the top front edge. I had sprayed the entire cabinet with 2 clear gloss coats after applying the grain filler. I let the gloss coats dry for a couple of days. I then taped off the columns, top, and sides and sprayed the front. I used the blue 3M tape. When I removed the tape it actually pulled off some of the clear lacquer. In some areas the blue tape actually left some adhesive residue. This was easily removed with mineral spirits. I lightly sanded the areas where the lacquer pulled out with 320 and spot hit them with a coat of clear. Then I masked off the front with the green 3M tape and sprayed the sides and top. The green tape did not leave any residue when I removed it. Here are a couple of pictures of what I am talking about.

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

There is a glare in the first picture that makes the finish seem like it is flaking off on the front edge but it is fine. I’m not sure how to tackle these areas. The only thing I can think of is to keep building up these areas with clear until they are level again.

I also got a great big drip on the top when the nozzle sputtered.

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

I’m using the fan nozzle that Mohawk sells. The coverage is much better with these but I find you need to wipe the nozzle more often than the standard ones that originally come with the cans. The picture was taken right after the drip hit the cabinet. It has since leveled out by itself and looks better but is still noticeable. I plan on very lightly sanding this to feather it in and then I’ll hit the area with a light coat of toner.

When is the best time to apply the Philco decal? I was thinking about applying 3 coats of clear and then sanding prior to adding the decal. Seems like the area where the decal will go is a little too rough to apply right now and I don’t want to sand the toner without some clear coat on top of it.

- Geoff

[Gene Pederson]

Geoff,
I gotta hand it to you, you have more tenacity and perseverance than I can believe! I am totally frazzled after just reading these 8 pages.

I have a bunch of cabinets that need refinishing and I am now getting a little jittery about them after seeing how much you have gone through.

My heartfelt Congratulations on the work you have done on this cabinet!!!

Gene

[Geoff]

Thanks Gene. This is my first cabinet refinish so it is a learning experience. Believe it or not, I'm actually enjoying myself. When I restripped, re-grain filled, and re-applied lacquer it went a lot faster the second time. I'm not as intimidated as I once was by the whole process. I think making some mistakes along the way may be unavoidable when spraying with cans in a garage. It's learning how to deal with the mistakes that takes experience and the only way to gain the experience is by doing.

[Geoff]

Well, the weather turned too cold to spray lacquer since my last post. Tonight I'm going to paint the edges of the grill cutouts per the recommendations from Bob Anderson in Post #45. It's supposed to warm up over the weekend so I'll be applying the decal and spraying the clear coats. My plan is to spray 3 coats of gloss, level with 500 or 800 grit paper, apply the decal, spray with three more coats, level, and then see how it looks. If need be I'll spray three more clear coats and level again. Then I'll let it cure for a month before doing the rub out. Wish me luck. I'll be posting updates as I progress.

- Geoff

[Bob Andersen]

Sounds good, but I don't bother to sand any finer than 400 between coats since the new coats will just melt into the old anyway.

[jerryhawthorne]

This restoration has been a total trip and I have learned a lot on sealers and fillers. I have tried Mohawk products for toners and found them expensive and did not like the delivery nozzles. I just use Deft out of the can and dyes that match the colors offered by Mohawk to tint my clear lacquer. I can spray a lot better out of a spray gun than a can and it is a whole lot cheaper. Much easier to vary the thinner to lacquer ratio for better flow depending upon temperature and the quantity of dye on the mixture for how fast I want to build up the color.
I'm not certain why people wish to pay the high price for a can of colored lacquer but then again, I'm no expert.
Jerry

[Ron Ramirez]

Simple - some of us do not have room for, or cannot afford, a good air compressor and spray gun.

Yes, I know that several cans of Mohawk will eventually add up to the cost of a good air compressor and quality spray gun. But then there is also the learning curve of mixing one's own toning lacquer.

I thought about investing in an air compressor, but then I thought about having to learn how to mix my own toners, and decided against it. Besides, I don't know where I would put a compressor. But, never say never...

[jerryhawthorne]

Ron, glad you said never say never! My compressor is 40 years old and I bought a set of cheap spray guns (three with various size tips for various deliveries) and don't think they cost more than a hundred or so. Probably buy a nice one suitable for less. It is a challenge to get the mixture right but that is part of the fun of cabinet restoration. The fun is also that it allows you to control so many factors like the temperature outside and when toning, how dense you wish the color to go on. No interest in paying big bucks for rattle cans. If you are not painting a car or sandblasting suitable compressors for this kind of work are cheap. The addition of toner to the cocktail is simple, the more dye you add, the denser it comes out of the gun. You can also mix dyes should you wish to change the color. It's fun!
We may or perhaps not convert you.
Jerry

[Geoff]

I recently bought a book entitled "Spray Finishing Made Simple" by Jeff Jewitt. It comes with a DVD that goes through the basics of spray finishing with an HVLP gun. My next project will be a 16B tombstone and I plan on using a spray gun when I refinish that one next Spring. That is if Santa brings me a spray gun this year :-). The current recommendations for the dark areas on that cabinet is Mohawk Extra Dark Walnut but from what I have seen on my 640, EDW seems to be a little too dark, almost black. While I am so far happy with the way my 640 is turning out I'd like to take things to the next level. The remaining finish on my 16B seems more like a really, really dark brown, a little darker than a Hershey's milk chocolate bar, and I want to try and emulate that color by mixing my own tinting lacquer and practicing on scrap wood. I have an air compressor so that's not a problem and I have a garage to spray in.

[Geoff]

I spent some time painting the inside of the grill cutouts yesterday. I didn't get a chance to get to it on Saturday. Was too busy with the family picking out a X-Mas tree and decorating the house. I used artist acrylic paint and mixed Burnt Umber into Mars Black to give a little brown tint to the black. As for the brush, I just used small basic brush from by 10 year old daughters paint set. If any paint got on the front of the grill cutouts it was easily wiped off with a wet rag. Here are some photos:


[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

This is the paint I used but I'm sure any acrylic type paint would work:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

If I have time tonight I'm going to apply the first 3 coats of clear gloss lacquer.

- Geoff

[jerryhawthorne]

Looking forward to your progess. Certainly looking nice.
Jerry

[Geoff]

I applied 3 coats of clear gloss lacquer last night. All 3 coats were "wet" coats.

With Flash

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

Without Flash

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

I'll be letting it dry today and tonight I will go over it with 320 grit paper.

Questions

1.) When I sand, should I wet sand or do it dry?

2.) How do you guys handle the mouldings around the bottom and the columns? I'm very paranoid that I'm going to sand right through a corner. Is steel wool a good option in these areas? Any other options?

- Geoff

[jerryhawthorne]

Looks very nice. I guess a question for you would be the purpose of further sanding? Does the finish appear to require it? I certainly looks nice in your pictures.

Jerry

[Geoff]

I've done a tone of research regarding the application of lacquer and hand-rubbing out the final finish. The purpose of sanding is to level out the surface and make it totally smooth. If you run your hand across a piece of furniture that has been professionally finished it has that "velvety" feel to it. Right now, if I run my hand across the finish you can feel where there is some over-spray, which is inevitable. Before I stripped the cabinet last time I practiced sanding with different grits. What happens is after you do the initial sanding you will see very small spots that are shiny. These are the low spots in the finish that did not get touched by the sanding. From what I have read, after you get to the point where there are small shiny spots you apply several more coats to build the finish back up, then sand down again. Eventually these shiny low spots will build up and get sanded like the surrounding area. These low spots are not really that low. Prior to sanding you would not even see them. But if you want that smooth "velvety" feel on your cabinet then the sanding must be done. When practicing before stripping I was really amazed at how smooth the finish felt after sanding with 320, then 500, then 800.