[joybird]

        Have a Philco Model 80 Mantel Clock Radio , which I believe is all Original.
The Clock, Speaker , all Philco Paper Labeled Filter Can, Labeled Globe tubes, Original Chassis parts Caps etc.

Filthy Dirty. Grill Cloth rotted.

Only draw back the Top Trim Piece is gone. Good news I have Pattern to make it.
Cabinet has had Brushed on finish at some time.

Now to figure how to restore this one.

NOTICED DIFFERENT CHASSIS

This chassis has additional tube shield for the other 36 tube.
I cannot find any other 80 chassis on Google search showing this.
This chassis is untouched as found
The Serial Number is E89171
Maybe Ron will know if this is early run or later Run



Bob T

[Radioroslyn]

Good catch!!! Radio is pretty easy to work on too. Keep us posted if you need help with your new project!
Terry

[TA Forbes]

OUTSTANDING find, Bob!!!!

[joybird]

UPDATED POST

[Ron Ramirez]

Hi Bob,

I've had more than a few model 80 sets pass across my bench, and I have previously owned an 80 that had the extra aluminum shield to the right as your picture shows. I do not know why they used a smaller shield, unless it was because of the larger shield on the other 36 tube? I've seen 80 sets that had one shield over the 36 on the right (only), over the 36 tube on the left (only)...I think Philco must have experimented with different tube shield ideas until they settled on using one shield.

Since your set has a Mershon electrolytic, I would guess that's an earlier production...not the earliest as it does not have the extra 10 uF electrolytic in the B- line, under the chassis...

[Phlogiston]

Should it have 2 Mershons?

[joybird]

No I believe the one is correct. I have it removed and polished and it is Stamped 4 MFD the Other Can is the 6 MFD Filter. P/N Philco 6707-S.
Also stamped C122 on that can.

This chassis has got me thinking, I do firmly believe this is an untouched chassis.
It is different than any other 80 I have seen.
It does not have the 10MFD Can shown on chassis layout in Nostaglia.

I have learned so far there were at least 12 runs of this chassis.
Not sure what run this chassis is, the only other marking on the chassis is
105 81 ,this is stamped in Black INK on front of chassis below 42 Tube.

The 16K resistor from the 4MFD is rather larger than see on other 80 chassis.
The chassis on this cleaned up beautiful no rust, I cleaned it and hit it with a coat of clear Satin Lacquer,
As I get into restoration I would like to see if I can determine what Run this may be.
I will look in my old Gernsback Schematic for the 80 and see what turns up.

Interesting Radio

Bob T

[joybird]

I have decided to just restore this chassis as it came from Factory.
Otherwise I will spend too much time on researching .

I know Ron has seen many versions of this go by his bench.

Wonder what kind of tool adjusted the 2 Tuning Cap Trimmers.
Not even a thin wall 1/4 driver fits.

It is a good feeling to restore one as nice original shape as this is.

One of the Philco updates stated the Run number was stamped inside a Star on the rear of chassis.
I do not see this on mine.
In fact the EARLY(3 KNOB) Model 19 did this also, I had a STAR STAMP made for that one when I restored it .

Bob T

[klondike98]

This photo from Chuck Schwark shows the "official" Philco tool that was used to adjust the trimmers: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread...70#pid1470

Here's a tool I made to get the job done: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread...8#pid52048

And some folks take an old Bic ballpoint, take of the little plug that is on the end opposite the writing point, heat up that end and smush it down on a 1/4" nut to form a tool.

I have a few more left from the batch I made, if you PM or email me your address I'll send one to you.

[joybird]

That won't work on the Tuning Cap for the Philco 80.

I made a Bunch of those a few years back. I used Nylon Rod, bought 8 foot lengths at the time tapped the thread and made as you did. They do work very well, but not for this application. The slotted screws prevent you from putting a driver like that on there. I only have one left of the dozens i made, they are a popular tool.

Thank You for your Kind offer.

Bob T

[joybird]

Started re stuff of Bakelite Caps, Found Primary of Ant Coil open. Rotted bad.

Ordered some 33 wire to rewind.

Is this a sign of things to come with the other 2 coils ?????


Bob T

[TA Forbes]

Could be, Bob. The early Philco Xfrmrs were prone to being open due to the type of plastic used to insulate the primary/secondary windings.

I am more than casually related to two of Bob's previous enrties:

1. I now own the early three-knob Philco 19 that Bob restored. The chassis is a MASTERPIECE!!

2. I am probably the only person who BROKE one of Bob's excellent nylon Philco alignment tools. KIDS: NEVER, EVER use an ALIGNMENT TOOL to loosen a frozen nut.

[joybird]

I THINK Ron blamed it on the adhesive. Can't recall his fix.
Will PM him. I think it may be doubled side Tape.

I can do the Ant , BUT if the Osc coil is bad, Hmmmm



Bob T

[Ron Ramirez]

I blamed it on the translucent nitrocellulose insulator that Philco used between primary and secondary of the windings. The breakdown of this, combined with the acids in the wax Philco used to seal the coils, was a recipe for disaster (eventually).

I use plastic electrical tape these days to replace the insulator, and hi-temp hot glue to hold the ends of the wires in place on the tape.