Posts: 8
Threads: 2
Joined: Jan 2014
City: Ruther Glen, VA
Posts: 8
Threads: 2
Joined: Jan 2014
City: Ruther Glen, VA
Posts: 143
Threads: 11
Joined: Dec 2013
City: Ithaca NY
Hi there, welcome to the Phorum!
I am also relatively new to this Phorum but have found it to be a wealth of good information on Philco radios.
From the pictures, yours looks like it's in pretty rough shape.
Whatever you do, DONT plug it in until someone goes completely through the circuit and replaces all the capacitors (soldered in), checks all the resistors (some will probably be bad also), the transformer, the tubes, etc...
Radios in this shape will always need lots of work.
Best advise is to go on youtube and search for radio restoration
to see what you are up against. There are some good videos
there that will give you an idea how to proceed.
If you are new to electronics, however, this may not be
a job you want to tackle yourself as there are lethal voltages
inside the chassis and some amount of basic electronics
knowledge is needed to work on these.
Hope this helps!
Good luck,
Herb S.
Ithaca NY
Posts: 335
Threads: 50
Joined: Apr 2011
City: Apple Creek
State, Province, Country: Ohio
Quote:What makes these things tick?
Restoration parts suppliers?
What normal issues should I be looking for?
How do I know if certain parts are still usable or not?
I know first off it needs to be cleaned. Will a damp cloth hurt it? And when I go to take this thing apart is there anything I should be extra cautious with.
1. If you are new to tube radios you should try to find a local radio club in your area and see if they have someone that will teach you.
2. There are many suppliers of parts for these radios Start here http://www.philcoradio.com/resource.htm, Ebay is also a good resource.
3. All of the electrolytic and wax caps should be replaced, resistors checked and replaced if 10 - 20% off value. Check coils and transformers/chokes according to values on the schematic.
4. Many parts are still around finding them is part of the frustration err Fun. I have found most parts can be found with a little asking around and searching.
5. Damp cloth will not hurt, just try not to get any water in to the transformers. Often time people will clean the chassis and spray it off in the sink. Just make sure to let it dry completely before plugging it in.
I echo that Herb said. Don't plug it in until it has been checked out and the caps replaced. Your chassis is pretty rusty but it can be restored. You can buy navel jelly at any Lowes or Home Depot and use it to remove the rust, be careful not to get any on the coils.
Find a Radio Club near you and have them help you out.
Posts: 8
Threads: 2
Joined: Jan 2014
City: Ruther Glen, VA
I appreciate the input. I have a few more questions though. I have noticed in my searches that there was a few different models that were made in this same case design. To be more specific the style I have is a 8 button. I have found a 9 button that the chassis is in far better condition then mine and the unit in general seems to be complete minus a power cord. Would I be able to use that chassis in my case and would the chassis parts be interchange able?
What places do you all recommend for the Schematics and if available a factory repair manual of sorts?
Posts: 15,444
Threads: 539
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
Trigg
Sorry to rain on it but whatever makes this tick, is not at all a good beginner's project. To be thoroughly honest, this one is not a good project period. I would never pay anything for this nor would I take it for free, except maybe the chassis for parts provided there are any good parts in a chassis that's been through what this one has. It looks pretty darn bad. So does the cabinet. I do not have it in me to take on a radio like this one.
Of course if you really feel like doing this one, go for it, we will help you as much as possible.....
I hope you got it for next to nothing, or someone paid you to remove it.
Posts: 5,060
Threads: 269
Joined: Nov 2012
City: Bandon
State, Province, Country: OR
Welcome to the Phorum. As Morzh mentioned, that set is in pretty rough shape and is not an easy one for a first time restoration, but being a set that's been in your family I understand the interest. If you want to restore it yourself, you'll need to do some reading and learning or connect up with a radio club. There is one about 2 hours from you (see: http://maarc.org/former_site1/index.html )
Here's a place to start reading: http://www.antiqueradio.org/begin.htm
You can find a schematic here: http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/414/M0013414.htm and http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...013415.pdf . Another place with perhaps clearer copy here: http://www.audiophool.com/Philco.html
A reproduction 8 button plastic escutcheon is available: http://www.radiodaze.com/product/1070.aspx as are the buttons http://www.radiodaze.com/product/1075.aspx .
Here's a YouTube video of how one fellow goes about restoring a much simpler radio but it should give you an idea of what you were asking with the "what makes it tic" question. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8wWw92HNZg
Explore the information available on this forum in the various sections and ask questions as you go.
Posts: 8
Threads: 2
Joined: Jan 2014
City: Ruther Glen, VA
Thank yall very much, and Morzh this thing being rough is a understatement. If you could have seen what had built a nice home under the chassis when I took it out.
Posts: 143
Threads: 11
Joined: Dec 2013
City: Ithaca NY
As a final comment, you might want to practice the
skills you will need to get this radio working on a
simpler radio to work on at first.
Preferably you could work with someone who is
experienced on a simpler radio (table top All American
Five Radio?) first to build skills before tackling this
console.
I agree that from what you've said already and from
the pictures this is definitely not a radio to start with!
Herb S.
Posts: 5,060
Threads: 269
Joined: Nov 2012
City: Bandon
State, Province, Country: OR
Good advice Herb! The YouTube video I mentioned in my post is on an all american five radio by "All American Five Radio" (aka Richard McWhorter). He has a lot of great videos to learn from http://www.youtube.com/user/AllAmericanFiveRadio
Posts: 5,060
Threads: 269
Joined: Nov 2012
City: Bandon
State, Province, Country: OR
Keep an eye on ebay and you may be able to pick up a chassis in better shape. Here's one in a 41-285 that looks better for $55 and a 14 hour road trip (one way ![Icon_sad Icon_sad](https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif) ) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-PHILCO-T...2518.l4276
Posts: 2,353
Threads: 92
Joined: May 2010
City: Clayton, NC
Got to agree with Mike, that is NOT a good beginner's project unless you have a pretty good electronic background. A heavily corroded chassis usually has a number of problems that are weird, tough to isolate, and tough to correct.
Posts: 289
Threads: 40
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Las Vegas, NV
For the good news, You can get a reproduction escutcheon (and pushbuttons) here: http://www.antiqueradioknobs.com/partlistings.html
The chassis is going to be a lot of work. I would *start* by blowing it off with compressed air. I'm hoping that is mainly dirt and not corrosion... Your going to have to learn how to solder as you'll be replacing parts and some wiring...
I would start with the cabinet work,. keep on the lookout for a chassis that might work, and try to find an old radio person in your area to mentor you a bit.
John
Las Vegas, NV USA
Posts: 8
Threads: 2
Joined: Jan 2014
City: Ruther Glen, VA
I appreciate the advice fellas. Most of all my electrical experience is vehicle ( and not not just wiring up a radio ) and mobile home hook ups. Which in saying that they have way better diagrams then what I been shown. But none the less, free radio and has family history.
But for now, I'll be getting to know the diagram for this thing before I even think about touching this thing again.
I do appreciate the help and im sure ill have more questions. Heck most likely in a couple hours.
Posts: 15,444
Threads: 539
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
John
about that compressed air....Trigg mentioned something making a living abode under the chassis and I surmise this something is of the rodentia order.....those vermins are know to carry some pretty deadly viruses such as hantavirus in their feces that, when airborn, sometimes, well, kill people. So, Trigg, as a minimum when blowing that thing:
1. Do it outside.
2. Wear a mask.
3. Discard the mask once done.
(This post was last modified: 01-03-2014, 08:07 PM by morzh.)
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