[phly guy]

Finally recieved my model 38-5. Over all I think the condition is better than I expected. Of course parts of the finish are flaking, aligatoring, or just gone, but the wood looks to be in good shape. Only issue I need to address short of the finish is some of the veneer on the front and side has lifted. What works best to re-attach this? I was thinking some cyanoacrylate (sp?) glue put under and then press/clamp the veneer back down.

Any other strategies?
I'll try to attach pictures when I get them from the camera.

John

[exray]

You really shouldn't use CA glue. If the veneer is lifting in one spot it may not be very long before it needs more serious attention. The veneer might be salvagable at that point in the future but if one corner is superglued then its not going to come back up...ever. Besides, the CA might dry too fast for you to get all your clamps in gear.

I'd recommend plain carpenters yellow glue. Squeeze some in as far as you can. I use a small putty knife or even a scrap of cardboard to push it in and spread it around evenly.

Since its apparently flat and clampable consider yourself lucky.

GL,
Bill

[phly guy]

Well, there's the rub. some of it is on flat surfaces but most of it is on curved surfaces. CyA glue would work well from the standpoint of quick cure so I could hold the pieces in place. But seems that sounds like a bad idea to you. I can understand that.

I'm pretty sure that the areas that need re-attached can be pressed and/or weighted to hold them down while they dry. Most of them are on the sides rather than the front so not extremely noticeable.

John.

[exray]

Well, there's the iron-on method. Get some glue on both surfaces and let it dry. Then iron it down. You have to hold it down on the curves with a rag or something while it cools, just a couple of minutes.

The downside is that if you are wanting to preserve the finish then you're out of luck.

If you think there's a chance of clamping it adequately then your best bet might be regular wood glue. I've been known to pop in a few staples from a regular office stapler to hold things in place You can hide the 'damage' pretty easily.

GL,
Bill

[phly guy]

While saving the finish would be ideal, the rest of the cabinet needs enough attention to the finish I'm considering it a total refinish if not a partial one at that.

By the way any particular favorites for removing/stripping the old finish, I assume it's lacquer....?

John

[phly guy]

While I'm at it, it seems that the previous owner decided to apply a liberal coat of furniture wax prior to my acquring it. There's still some stuck in the nooks and crannies, and in spots under the lifting veneer. I'm sure this will affect my ability to restick this veneer. So, what should I use to get rid of the wax without spreading it where I don't want it? Some Q-tips and mineral spirits, or something else like acetone, naptha? What are your ideas?

[exray]

Toothbrush and mineral spirits should clean it up with no ill effects.

Yes, the finish should be lacquer. Before you think about any stripping you might check to make sure none of the finish is irreplaceable faux 'photofinish'. I'm not familiar with that particular model.

[phly guy]

To my knowledge none of the finish is photo finish. Good question though, thanks for asking it. Now I'll make sure I get an answer before I start stripping it.

Thanks for the tip.

[Robert]

Has anyone used Gorilla Glue on there woodwork?

[exray]

Yeah, it makes a mess! Gorilla Glue will foam up and expand as it cures. Its great stuff for interior or well hidden joints but not the type of thing you want to use with veneer.

Rule of thumb with repairing loose veneer is that you want it to be removable later. Wood glue allows that. If you solidly glue down one area with a "permanent" glue then you (or the next guy) will have to deal with that when the adjacent areas need regluing later.

[radiomikee]

One way to attach veneer on curved surfaces is by using any slow drying glue and belt clamps. Belt clamps use web belts tightened by a nut driving wrench, and can be slipped around an entire console. If necessary, you can use "battens" of wood to get pressure the entire length of the cabinet. Sandbags can also be heavy enough sometimes. Belt clamps are available from any good woodworkers supply website like Garrett Wade, etc.