02-12-2014, 08:57 PM
Uh oh. One of the leads popped out. Now what? It's a Model 41-285.
Broken on/off switch
02-12-2014, 09:36 PM
Oh, Oh.
Better see if Mark Oppat has one. He repairs switches too. murf
02-12-2014, 09:44 PM
An article of interest involving the power switch on another 1942 Philco:
http://www.philcoradio.com/notebook/41226.htm Regards Arran
02-12-2014, 10:26 PM
if it is copper or brass it can be soldered to.
02-12-2014, 11:23 PM
The problem is accessing the little tab that the broken line was soldered to. It's recessed pretty far in from the bottom of the switch. I may grind out those rivets and try to open it up, so I can hopefully re-solder. I figure I have nothing to lose, as I'll likely be replacing it either way.
02-12-2014, 11:43 PM
Or maybe you could just grind some of the plastic away around the connection then use hot glue or something to fill it back up. Sometimes those little switches are hard to get everything back in correctly.
02-13-2014, 02:02 AM
Maybe it's just me.. but doesn't that switch look like it's been arcing? The top looks discolored and melted, and part of the cap is missing.
02-13-2014, 08:24 AM
+2 on what Brenda said.
Looks like overheating to me. The switch contacts either need to be cleaned up or just replace the switch. The resistance from dirty contacts will cause a smoke-producing failure sooner or later. It's not how bad you mess up, it's how well you can recover.
02-13-2014, 12:26 PM
Replace the darned switch a'ready.
Arran posted the link. Follow it. The procedure isn't difficult. Your radio will thank you. You're welcome. -- Ron Ramirez Ferdinand IN
02-13-2014, 12:41 PM
Can you really darn a switch.....?
02-13-2014, 01:59 PM
Yeah, true... it does look like it got overheated looking closer at it.
02-13-2014, 02:04 PM
It's future reliability, if "repaired," will be less than 0%.
"Trust the Force Luke…" Chuck Chuck Schwark, The Philco Repair Bench [Image: http://www.philcorepairbench.com/images/philog3tiny.gif] http://www.philcorepairbench.com
02-13-2014, 02:21 PM
My only worry was finding a part to replace it. Went out to Lowe's this morning and got the LAST ONE they had in stock. I hope it's a good fit. One question that I still have is:
OK, I drill out the rivets on the old and new switches, and remove the plastic half from the original (leaving the metal half, and actuator, intact). Then I replace the plastic half with the new one, hoping the rivets line up in the same spot. But since the rivets are drilled out, how do I securely reattach it? Just drop some JB Weld in the rivet holes? Sorry the questions may sound basic, but I want to make sure I do this right the first time. Thanks, Ted
02-14-2014, 04:50 PM
Replaced! Thanks for all your help, people. It was a pain in the butt, but the switch is as good as new now. Thanks.
02-14-2014, 05:22 PM
Even if they did not have stock, you could order online from them.
Good find though...Lowes!
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