[morzh]

Well, technology has improved since, that it did. A cap from 70s could be 4-8 times the size of a today's equivalent.

[Ron Ramirez]

All finished!

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...0002-2.jpg]

The 4400 plays loud and clear, on both left and right channels now. All of the under-chassis power supply and audio section electrolytics have now been replaced. I also replaced both 2N2924 audio transistors, and replaced the line-to-ground tubular cap with an X1/Y2 safety cap.

To review, a "before" picture:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...0001-2.jpg]

and the "after" photo:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...0001-3.jpg]

I'm waiting for some LED festoon lamps for this receiver and for my 440-T.

Once they arrive, I'll button it back up and start enjoying it.

[Gene Pederson]

Congratulations Ron! That should be a joy to listen to.

Gene

[Ron Ramirez]

Thanks, Gene!

Today, four LED festoon lamps arrived.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...e00003.jpg]

I promptly installed two of them in the 4400. The dial looks much brighter now, although these photos do not do the set justice, I think:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...0001-4.jpg]

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...0002-3.jpg]



I'm really happy with how this receiver turned out. It works great and looks great!

[BrendaAnnD]

I bought some of those for my Kenwood KR-5150 (I'm crazy about those), they make the dial jump out at me. I like your Fisher dial better, though. Edge lit always looks nicer, sharper.

[Ron Ramirez]

Brenda, I looked up the Kenwood KR-5150. Neat set. Did you use the blue LEDs for the dial, or white?

I have a Fisher 202 Futura that has a backlit dial, with bluish numbers like a lot of early to mid 1970s receivers. I'm thinking of installing blue LEDs in it to make the dial really "pop". Ditto for my Marantz 2215B. But it isn't a priority right now, I have plenty of other projects to work on.

[BrendaAnnD]

I used the white ones. I also installed some white LEDs for the indicator lamps, since half of those were out as well. Might end up changing those for another type I got in recently, because the regular LEDs don't light the indicators as evenly as I would like.

[PhilcoMike]

Ron,

What no "restuffed" capacitors?
Seriously though great work and sense of accomplishment.

Mike

[Ron Ramirez]

Thanks! Yes, getting this 4400 going again in both channels did bring about quite the sense of accomplishment.

I actually did consider restuffing the large cans which were held in by clip-on clamps, but decided against it. I *might* try that with the next Fisher, not sure at this point.

[codefox1]

Nice work Ron. I have some Scott Gear which I will overhaul once I get a ROUNDTUIT. Am wondering if it might be worhwhile to create "Vintage Audio" forum which could be an alternate place for amps, tuners, and such.
Best!

[Ron Ramirez]

Codefox - that is a good idea. I will give it some serious thought, plus discuss with the mods. It would be another subforum of the Phorum, not a separate entity.

[Arran]

With regard to using blue LEDs in Marantz receivers like a 2215B, I wouldn't. I was researching what dial lamps I needed for a Marantz I have and ran across photos on some websites of 70s era rigs using blue LEDs and they just don't look right, it makes it look like it's lit by blue LED Christmas lights. I settled on using regular 8 volt fuse style pilot lamps instead, for some reason I could not find a source of warm white LED substitutes, just the blue ones.
Regards
Arran

[BrendaAnnD]

I got some nice white LED substitutes just a while back. http://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-fuse-lamp-fo...1021320541

[Ron Ramirez]

Tonight, I converted my Fisher 4400 to use an LED stereo indicator, and it works. Too well. The light stays on when I tune off station, then slowly goes out. But it is working at full brilliance. It had a working incandescent bulb in it previously, so I thought it would be a good one to try.

[Mondial]

Ron, you might try reducing the value of the 10K shunt resistor to around 3.3K. This should bypass a bit more current around the LED making it less sensitive, and it will discharge the cap faster so the LED will be more responsive. Even with the lower value shunt, the combination still draws less current than the original lamp, but it will be closer to original.