[PAradiogeek]

Morzh,

Probably a stupid question, but what are those donut shaped things behind the left and right knobs? I've never seen anything like them before.

[morzh]

PA

Judging from what I think I saw, one is simply a pot, volume reg, and the other I think is the tone control switch.

[PAradiogeek]

I guess I figured that is what they had to be, but as I said, I had never seen anything quite like them.

Good luck with the radio!

Jon

[morzh]

thanks Jon, will need it.

[morzh]

Jerry

So I took it out. Not without pain.

First mistake I did was, when I severed the wires the panel would not be left alone and I fully overlooked the fact that the box has snap-in tabes so it had to be taken out of the base first. I made many photos of the wires from every angle and simply snapped the connectons off and took the whole block out, and only after that I saw the tabs
I guess what duped me was the fact that the tin can in 20 has no tabs. O in my mind I saw the picture that was not there.

OK, this is easy and I like soldering.

Then today I cleaned the vice I bought, very heavy, propbably 20 plus lbs pr so, put it in a cardboard box, screwed in the screw and started yanking it out relying on teh sheer weight of the vice. This worked to a degree - the whole block did not get out (I have dark-blue or gray paper and it did not seem like it was permeated by the tar but still......the part that came out was the middle cap.
Plus lots of tar shrapnel.
then I simply pried every section with a screwdriver and took them out quite easily with my fingers.
After that the paper lining just came out.

Except for a lot of the tar pieces around (most in the box so not too bad) and half of them stuck to the vice due to the lubrication, all went not bad at all.
I wiped the wice, wiped my shoes' soles and then vacuumed the floor, put the box in a garbage bag....that was it.

I have decided I had enough for today and will start the recapping of the box during the week.

[jerryhawthorne]

Sounds like your vice did well Mike, not certain why the whole thing didn't come out in one piece put you got the job done. I guess I failed to mention that the box itself comes off the base with a little poking and prying and leaving all the connections underneath still attached. Your moving along fine. Do post some pictures.
Best, Jerry

[morzh]

I will.

Should've photographed the internal parts when extracted, but there was too much debris and too much dirt and lube on my hands so I decided I will just snap the photos of the emptied can and the caps when installed.

As to why it did not come out as one piece - in my case I"d be surprised if it did.
The sections were not coupled with each other at all, so every one I pulled with my hands woud come out separately.
The tar was only on top, about 3mm thick and it simply cracked when I was pulling on the screw, so the screw that went exactly into the middle section pulled it out having cracked the tar on top, and there was no other bond at all between the sections. The paper was not glued to the can - I took it out without having to rip anything.

One other theory was maybe I should've drilled the pilot hole with larger diameter drill bit, as the screw when it went in could've expanded the block a bit and so it did not readily come out, although when I was screwing the screw in it went without much problem. I was afraid it would not hold well if I drilled it to large.
In any case it took me 20 minute for everything including vacuuming and wiping the vice and bagging everything - compared to what it was like in the 20 it was walk in the park.

[jerryhawthorne]

Ah Ha Mike, makes sense. On mine the tar penetrated throughout the whole can making it essentially a "monoblock" but isolated from the can with the cardboard liner. Your on your way for the restuff now. I hope my pictures give you one idea as to how to do it.
Jerry

[morzh]

Jerry


Nice job restuffing, this is about the same I thought of doing also.
Have to research caps a little bit to pick the ones for the job.
I have some lytics available but more will be needed plus some cannot be polarized.

Will go search Mouser now.

[morzh]

Yesterday found out the speaker's field coil is open.
Luckily I have another one I bought, it might be from a 95 console (don't remember) but it is the same exact speaker for 2x45 pushpull drive, so I will just replace it when time comes.

Meantime, ordered some parts from Mouser.
Small order - I have most of the resistors except three values, one of which I always stock but ran out, 100K.
The capacitors - I only need 2uF big ones, others from what I could see do not need to be large types.
Had fun time trying to figure out which part is which with the resistors with that blurry Rider's underchassis diagram but I was able to do it surprisingly fast.

[morzh]

Well, today was the tax day, spent the evening doing fun stuff (still do it by hand without any software - takes me 3-4 hrs) so haven't had much done in restoration department except I managed to check all tubes.

Surprisingly, all tubes tested excellent with the 80 globe rectifier being on the low side of good. It being the globe Philco type, I will forgive the low side.

[morzh]

Yesterday did the cap block, spent about 1/2 hr.
Today soldered it in place.
Then did not know what to busy myself with, and did the recarb.
Five resistors are good, 1K and 4x100K, the rest had to go.

Some were totally out: 70K resistor fully open, 13K resistor in oscillator load open, few were 4-5 times the value. So I don't think this radio would work if I were to try it after recap - the oscilaltor would not oscillate.
And the screen greed voltage would be too high due to the open 70K #66 resistor, though it is possible that this would not fully cut the reception.

Well, tomorrow rebuilding tin can caps and tone control.
Then - power-up!

[jerryhawthorne]

Morzh, keep up the updates, glad to hear things are moving along.
Jerry

[morzh]

Oh yeah, they are moving. Not rocket fast - needed the package to come from Mouser, then other things....
Today rebuilt the tin cans and the tone control as planned, the tone control seems to be exact same part as in 90, so I already knew what is there and how to do it, simply looking at the photos I took from the previous one.

One of the tone control caps was simply open. The other two were 25nF instead of 15nF and 10nF.
The slider is black - really black. I clean what I could with alcohol, then sprayed with Deoxit and will dry overnight before potting.
This will be it, then the power up.

Jerry

Did you also have the wires really brittle?
When I was soldering the big cap can back in place some wires would crack; I dressed them in heatshrink. I don't think there is any danger but although I did encounter this brittleness before I never saw that many stiff wires.

[jerryhawthorne]

I don't recall replacing any wires Mike. Might have been just lucky.
Jerry