Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

42-380 escutcheon related
#1

Hello All,

Joining the Phorum due to dad giving me a 42-380. It is a delight for me; my grandfather bought it new!

I have a couple of initial questions if someone can advise:

1) The first thing I did was purchase a repro escutcheon. The original was severely distorted & broken.

In my zest I removed the brass plate for the dial labels & the angled cardboard piece that goes on the backside of the escutcheon.

Problem 1) - I did not note if the cardboard angle faces up or faces down. I installed it on the upside & the escutcheon doesn't seem to want to install. Before I fatigue the brass again to flip it around I wanted to ask what is the proper position for the cardboard piece.
   
Note: Picture with correct installation added after original posting.

2) Second question - Push button copper "spring". Unlike the other buttons the left end button does not have the rectangular spring. Is that proper?

The

TIA for you time

Gary
#2

1) Mine does not have a cardboard piece on the backside of the escutcheon, so I 'm afraid I can't help you there. Perhaps you can post some pictures of it.

2) I believe this is right. Mine also did not have the copper spring on the On/Off button, which is the one on the left.

It's not how bad you mess up, it's how well you can recover.
#3

The copper springs are designed to block light from the little tabs above each pushbutton *except* for the button that is pushed in. Notice when you push the button for the AM band, the "B'D'CST" tab lights up above that button.

When you push the OFF button, this turns the set off, so it cannot be illuminated; therefore, no copper spring is needed for this button.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#4

Hi Eric I will post a picture - Later I can give you details - you can fabricate one.
I have not gotten the picture posting working - I can send to you directly if you wish

Hi Ron - thank-you for the button detail - glad to know a piece is not missing - today on ebay I saw someone has a 42-380 chassis for sale; that one had no copper spring on the left end - so your note really nails it for me. Thanks again

Gary
gfleduc@msn.com
#5

Posting this for sharing / reference purposes:
I am missing 3 of the orginal escutcheon mount screws; specification: Phillips oval head - #3 x 3/8", Wood Screws, BRASS
Ref: over all length .405". I did a ton of searching on the internet and could not find any. I found one vendor who has nickel screws; Blacksmith Bolt & Rivet Supply. I painted those with brass paint it was a great match.
By the way - by mistake I ordered 40 screws if someone needs any...
#6

Question- On the back of the escutcheon, above the push buttons, trapped by a small angled metail detail is a sheet of plastic ~ 5/8" wide x 7-1/4" long. When new is this item translucent or clear?
#7

Using a reproduction escutcheon one has to transfer or replace the white vellum paper and angled metal piece on the back. When doing mine, I found one of the four drive screws was missing.
The drive screws are tiny ~ 1/16” dia x 3/16” long.

Replacement screws can be purchased @ SpencerAircraft.com
P/N MS21318-2 or alt part # AN535-00-3

I have now have extras if you need one.
FYI – install hole = .052 diameter, that is a #55 drill


   
#8

(04-28-2014, 10:42 PM)gfleduc Wrote:  Using a reproduction escutcheon one has to transfer or replace the white vellum paper and angled metal piece on the back.   When doing mine, I found one of the four drive screws was missing.
The drive screws are tiny ~ 1/16” dia x 3/16” long.

Replacement screws can be purchased @ SpencerAircraft.com
P/N  MS21318-2 or alt part # AN535-00-3

I have now have extras if you need one.
FYI – install hole = .052 diameter, that is a #55 drill

Mine is missing one of the 4 screws as well. I just got the 4 new screws. However I'm wondering how do you get the old screws out without damaging it? And do you just hammer in the new ones after you drill the hole?
#9

I have a 41-300 that was missing all of the escutcheon screw. I grabbed a sack of Hillman #490114 at Lowes. They are #2's 3/8" long. Trying to match the originals may be a bit difficult with out getting them from another set. They could use a spot of paint as they are too bright.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#10

(08-11-2016, 10:51 PM)spiderdrummer24 Wrote:   do you just hammer in the new ones after you drill the hole?

Welcome to the Phorum!
Icon_wave

no hammer.... screws screw in  Icon_biggrin
#11

(08-12-2016, 02:39 PM)klondike98 Wrote:  
(08-11-2016, 10:51 PM)spiderdrummer24 Wrote:   do you just hammer in the new ones after you drill the hole?

Welcome to the Phorum!
Icon_wave

no hammer.... screws screw in  Icon_biggrin
Ok but how do you unscrew them and screw them in? They have no groove
#12

hmmm....now you have me stumped  Icon_question
#13

(08-14-2016, 11:06 PM)spiderdrummer24 Wrote:  
(08-12-2016, 02:39 PM)klondike98 Wrote:  
(08-11-2016, 10:51 PM)spiderdrummer24 Wrote:   do you just hammer in the new ones after you drill the hole?

Welcome to the Phorum!
Icon_wave

no hammer.... screws screw in  Icon_biggrin
Ok but how do you unscrew them and screw them in? They have no groove

 Very carefully  Icon_crazy   actually you might be right about tapping them.in with a hammer. I have seen screws like that before. Does it have a head that looks like a round nail haad and are the "threads" different than it's screws? They kind of go up the screw instead of around aND around? If so then they need to be tapped in carefully.
#14

I suppose if you did break off a brass tab you could solder a new piece of brass in it's place ( fab a new tab). Hobby shops carry small pieces of sheet brass in a number thicknesses.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#15

Very carefully use a sharp pick. lift up then use pliers and twist off

Some day, and that day may never come, I will call upon you to do a service for me. But until that day, accept this justice as a gift
mafiamen2




Users browsing this thread: 3 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 42-390, code 121 speaker
These speakers pop up on eBay regularly, even if at bloated prices. Honestly, have not seen many parts on swapmeets.morzh — 08:38 PM
Philco 38-7 Speaker
The put-put is not like the speaker problem.morzh — 08:29 PM
Mission Bell Model 19A Car Radio
Hello everyone,  As mentioned in my last post I was going to see if the vibrator / rectifier section could be persuaded...Antipodal — 08:21 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
Wondering if I did it backwards. If a coil was wound backwards, the oscillator would not work at all. Old school...Chas — 07:23 PM
Philco 38-7 Speaker
4-ohm speaker. Black, Green leads.tludka — 07:00 PM
Philco 42-390, code 121 speaker
#87 on the schematic.  This radio had a 8" Zenith  speaker attached to it when I got it. I do don't know the hist...Stevelog — 06:39 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
I'm pretty sure I now have the litz wire soldered. This did not make any difference. Back in April I rewound the seconda...dconant — 06:25 PM
Philco 38-7 Speaker
Just to make sure, you chose either 4 ohm into 5K or into 10K? (blk-org or blk-grn)morzh — 06:23 PM
Philco 38-7 Speaker
I have let this one sit because of other duties. Now I am back, and I have a couple of questions. I hooked up a Hammond ...tludka — 05:34 PM
Philco 42-390, code 121 speaker
>>A closer examination of the very small print schematic indicates that the speaker is a PM type. This shows a ...morzh — 05:18 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 5179 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 5178 Guest(s)
Avatar

>