[codefox1]

I like to get rid of deep rust and pitting from "guests" or leaking capacitors by steel wool or abrasive stones, and as said already, some similar colored paint in the affected area(s.) If a chassis is totally stripped (as in repurposing an old organ amp into a guitar amp,) I'll shine it up or paint it as needed.

[gregb]

Warren, the biggest problem is that by the time all of the scratches are gone so is a good part of the original plating and now the chassis will be more prone to rusting unless painted or treated in some way. I do understand that sometimes a chassis is so rusty or mouse damaged that a person has to do something but myself I avoid those sets. I do have some Scott's that have some pitting and rusting, I will strip them down to the bare chassis and have them replated.

Gregb

[Groundhog74]

I painted one chassis. A philco 90. Only because it was totally filthy and severely rusted in some areas where some unknown substance, that vaguely smelled like bar-b-que grill grease, had been spilled all over it (and the cabinet). Hated to do it, but it would have been hideous otherwise. All the others I clean as well as I can and polish anything that's easily polished.

[462ron]

I thank everyone for their input. My chassis isn't that bad that a good cleaning would make it presentable so I think I will forgo the painting. Plus the added amount of work and time it would add to this project would start to get out of hand with questionable and probably irreversible results if I should screw it up...LOL

Ron

[Warren]

Greg, I agree by the time you are finished steel wool, buffing up, etc the original finish is off. So, to make sure you can paint as you said. Although I am not sure that the chassis will be prone to more rust, etc if it is kept in a clean dry environment. For something to rust it has to have both moisture and oxygen on it, I may be wrong but it seems if it is kept in the house it wont get much moisture.. maybe depends on the climate also even in the house. That being said I do prefer to keep a chassis as close to the way it was made originally as possible too.

[codefox1]

Agree that once cleaned up and rust, leaking caps, etc.. removed, little else will happen in a reasonably dry and ventilated environment. A coating of paste wax couldn't hurt though.

[gregb]

I do agree Warren and where I am it is so dry that would be no problem at all. But then I dont have a rust issue in the first place unless it was very poorly stored over the years and/or the mice made a home in the set. The rusted sets are few and fair between so I can be a little more picky and would not consider something really rusty in the first place.
How about the folks that live in a humid area? They will have rust issues unless they have air con or they treat the chassis.

Gregb

[Warren]

Yea, thats what I was wondering. People that live in a humid area... Do they have a problem with rust even if the set is kept inside? Here in California I don't think there is much of a problem as long as it is kept inside.

[Jamie]

I usually take a paint brush and a can of compressed air and get rid of the coating of dust. Then I'll pull each tube, clean them up good, spray some contact cleaner in the tube sockets. After that, I'll clean up the tuning condensor in the same manner. No paint unless the chassis is totally trashed.

If you used compressed air, be careful where you spray it. It can cause problems if sprayed directly into the IF cans, or near anything with mica sheets in it. The one thing you do not want to see is your own little personal snow shower of mica crystals. (Don't ask me how I know this).