Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

116B chassis resto begins
#1

Sorry for another crappy pic. Two cameras and I hate both of them Icon_rolleyes No race on this chassis. Taking my time. Maybe I'll have it up & running tonight.
[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/d/79688...B1_001.jpg]

-Brian
If you collect or are interested in antique telephones, please visit Classic Rotary Phones
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php
#2

Brian,... "whew"!! (hee hee)!!!!...nice chassis indeed!.... you only have about 10 more caps to go!, then your ready for the ol-variac slow up test!Mostly good condition orig cloth-wiring insulation too!?? Ah, the "sound",.. the "great feeling" of supplying new-life into a fine vintage Philco!!From the looks of the orig bias-resistor, dont be surprised if you get audio very soon!!Looks like the sets chassis is not badly-molested from the past too boot! Im not that lucky these days!(hee hee)!! I know you will do a great-job in bringing that set back to life!! Enjoy your vintage Philco!! Thanks for the photos!! As Texans always sayIcon_sadCaledonia !!.. git a lil on ya!!) hee hee!! Icon_wink
#3

Ok boys, before I damage something. How does the front of the dial shaft come apart, so I can remove the dial limp shade?
[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/d/79826...b+dial.JPG]

-Brian
If you collect or are interested in antique telephones, please visit Classic Rotary Phones
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php
#4

What looks like a nut...which your finger is pointing at...is a nut. Loosen and remove it; its mating part is behind a piece of metal which is directly behind the shadow mask.

But if you are wanting to remove the dial lamp, there is no need to remove the shadow mask...the dial lamp assembly is behind the shadow mask, held onto the tuning condenser with one screw, and can be removed from behind fairly easily.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#5

No, I want to remove the dial mask for cleaning. Plus, I want to clean the tuner. I tried removing that nut, but it's tight. So I wanted to be sure. No turning back if I screw up Icon_confused

-Brian
If you collect or are interested in antique telephones, please visit Classic Rotary Phones
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Correct model 84 Ac plug an cord type
From what I read Philco went to using brown rubber power cords in 1936, so cloth was used in the 1935 and earlier models...Arran — 11:25 PM
Correct model 84 Ac plug an cord type
Hi Bruce, I have not worked on an 84, but in general, power cords for almost any radio prior to 1938 was cloth covered...MrFixr55 — 08:34 PM
Restoring Philco 38-14
OK, well, so after staring at the sch again, I realized the problem had to be the #12/12A padder. I put a scope on the o...morzh — 08:15 PM
Correct model 84 Ac plug an cord type
Hello Bruce, I mostly use brown far as my cloth powercords go ! Here is the plug that I have used bakelite Acorn style...radiorich — 08:05 PM
Correct model 84 Ac plug an cord type
Looking for as correct as can find the right Ac plug an the correct colored cloth line. Ive seen many old photos but mos...Bruce — 04:13 PM
Restoring Philco 38-14
Rod Two Y-caps make sense if you use them from L/N to the chassis; this is only makes sense in the transformer radios...morzh — 10:11 AM
Restoring Philco 38-14
Mike, I'm curious about a specific use of he Y cap. Lately I've seen a single cap across the power transformer primary. ...RodB — 09:01 AM
Restoring Philco 38-14
hello morzh , That sounds like a plan ! Sincerely Richardradiorich — 07:45 AM
Restoring Philco 38-14
Richard, It helped some, but I still had the whining when engaging the rear power strip (I did not realize it was fro...morzh — 07:07 AM
Restoring Philco 38-14
Hello morzh, Yes , that dreaded hum in my room where i do alighment I have my cable modem and router plus desktop plus ...radiorich — 11:25 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>