[BDM]

I know some of you have done this. I'm planning on this shortly. I just removed all three cans from my 116B chassis. It's tight under there, and I'd rather install them into the original cans. Any tips or pics?

[etech]

On the capacitors I did, I used a hack saw blade mounted in a single handle and cut around the perimeter about 1/4 inch up from the bottom. These were for a Philco 60 and the cut was made so that it wouldn't show when the can was clamped in place. It is also helpful to draw a vertical line across the cut before taking the capacitor apart, so that the can will be postioned exactly same as it was removed. I'm sure there are better methods and I will be interested to read about them.

Ed

[BDM]

That's what I'm going to do. Cut below the clamp line, using a pipe cutter. Gives a fast clean cut. Over a sink of course

[Ron Ramirez]

I cut mine open in a similar manner to the technique Ed mentioned, only I use a Dremel tool with a flat cut-off wheel instead of a hacksaw.

I replace the original aluminum positive electrode with a piece of 12 gauge copper wire, with black electrical tape wrapped around it; just enough so that it fits snugly in the hole where the old rubber used to be. Then seal that in place on the inside. I remove the solder terminal that is crimped on to the aluminum electrode on the outside of the can (this is difficult, but can be done with patience and a bit of luck) and attach it to the copper wire on the outside (EDIT: I not only re-crimp it to the copper, but also solder it to ensure a solid electrical connection). I solder the positive terminal of the new electrolytic on the inside end of the copper wire. The negative lead is extended if necessary with a bit of wire, and run through the bottom of the can by drilling a hole in it.

I've been meaning to take pictures of my technique, but my digital camera does not do so well on close-ups.

[etech]

That's what I'm going to do. Cut below the clamp line, using a pipe cutter. Gives a fast clean cut. Over a sink of course

I considered using a pipe cutter also, but decided against it because I was concerned that the pipe cutter would bend the soft aluminum. I have noticed this effect when using the pipe cutter to cut copper pipe, although in that situation it would not be a problem.

Ed

[BDM]

Thank you gentleman. I was wondering about that positive terminal. Ed, your concerns are justified, if it's cranked on. Making sure your cutter is sharp, you then apply slight pressure while circling the pipe(or can) rapidly. Works like a charm with very minimal or no obvious bending. This comes from years of pipe splicing both automotive and house plumbing

[mandh]

I use a pipe cutter also. I have found that as long as you do not try to cut too quickly, and apply pressure in small increments, you get a very clean cut in the aluminum can. A good place to cut is on the crimp near the bottom of the can. Depending on how the capacitor is mounted, I hold the two halves together with either masking tape or or use a glue gun.

[Chuck Schwark]

Just adding this, from my Service Tips section, FYI.

http://www.philcorepairbench.com/tips/svctip46.htm

It deals with the "wet" types, but the opening/re-building of the can is applicable to any re-stuffing effort.

Chuck