[Edisla]

Howdy!

Looking for some input on my conversion setup on this 42-1008P.

GO!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Hd2rh43...e=youtu.be

[sam]

welcome edisla
looks like you are missing some parts sure some one here can help
good luck with it
sam

[Edisla]

Well I gave my thoughts on how this could work a try.

Raised the shaft sleeve up so the wheel would make contact and mocked up a spring to bring the wheel down.

[Image: http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b519...847315.jpg]

Then I tested it out and got the following.

Trying to figure out if its going the right speed.

[Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hCLiZJ0...LVbmgGVAzg]

[sam]

edisla
boy that sounds rough but it works
sorry I can`t help on this as I have 41 witch is deferent then yours
shame they converted head unit
did you recap the radio yet ?
if not should do that before any thing else
sam

[Edisla]

edisla
boy that sounds rough but it works
sorry I can`t help on this as I have 41 witch is deferent then yours
shame they converted head unit
did you recap the radio yet ?
if not should do that before any thing else
sam

Not yet recapped and have taken a few chances so far but I needed to see if the table had potential.

Looks like we have potential so I will be removing the radio and table out shortly to start seeing what she needs under the hood

[sam]

pretty sure that transformer will cost more then the turn table
at very lest change electrolytic`s 
do your self a favor  for 7.00   get the schematic`s from  Chuck Schwark  large print   may not help but comes with bol info
as yours is modified good to know how if you do get playing again
http://www.philcorepairbench.com/schematics.htm

[Edisla]

pretty sure that transformer will cost more then the turn table
at very lest change electrolytic`s 
do your self a favor  for 7.00   get the schematic`s from  Chuck Schwark  large print   may not help but comes with bol info
as yours is modified good to know how if you do get playing again
http://www.philcorepairbench.com/schematics.htm

Yup she is out of the cabinet and will not be powered on until recapped, rewired if needed, and whatever resistors need changing.

[Joeztech]

The changer appears to be a single speed type - 78 rpm? The rubber portion of the idler wheel is probably glazed slick which does not help. As for a replacement spring to provide tension against the inside of the turntable platter, McMaster Carr is a good source. Perhaps someone can tell us the size of the original coil spring OD and also the AWG of the wire used to make the coil. That will help you duplicate the original spring. It is possible that someone may even have reproduction springs and/or idler wheels or rebuilds idler wheels.

Joe

[Sean]

It looks like your turntable has had the post-war retrofit for the motor and drive installed.  The phono in my 42-1015 is the same way.  I bought a bunch of square cross-section O-rings from McMaster-Carr to replace the rubber on the drive wheel.  PM me your mailing address and I'll drop one in the mail for you gratis.  I only needed one but had to buy something like 10 of them.

I also did some modifications to the mounting of that drive wheel in my unit.  There was a lot of slop in the way the bracket that holds the wheel was mounted to the base which caused the wheel to wobble while the platter was spinning.  There was a shoulder bushing that fit into the slot of the bracket and a mounting screw when through this bushing and into the base.  The bushing was a little too long so I filed it down and made sure there was a washer on the top of the bracket between it and the nut that held everything together.  I checked that there was minimal wobble but that the whole assembly was not so tight as to prevent the bushing from sliding in the slot on the bracket.  A little bit of grease on those surfaces also helps.