16B cathedral cabinet face and arch
Posts: 236
Threads: 43
Joined: Oct 2010
City: Atlantic Highlands, NJ
I am gluing up a de-laminated cabinet. If I remove the screws inside the cabinet that hold the center section in (part that has the grill) will it pop out or is it glued in place also?
Thanks,
Steve
Posts: 236
Threads: 43
Joined: Oct 2010
City: Atlantic Highlands, NJ
The arch is coming apart too. Outside of making a form to clamp it back, is there a better way to glue it up?
Posts: 1,401
Threads: 70
Joined: Oct 2007
City: Linn Creek, MO
Steve, the front panels can sometimes be a little difficult to break loose from the arch. If you just use brute force it will pull some veneer from the front panel. You may need to work a razor blade between the panel and arch to break it loose.
The front arch on some Philco cathedrals were made in two pieces and joined with a corrugated joiner. These arches almost always separate. Other cabinets (sometimes the same model) they made the arch one piece, with continuous banding across the joint. These cabinets never have the problem.
It might be worth a try to glue and clamp the arch back together. It would be a major project, but the best repair would be to take the cabinet apart, remove the veneer from the arch,cut the banding back and reinstall banding across the joint.
Here are some pictures of an early 89B that I made this repair.
[Image: http://i985.photobucket.com/albums/ae335...3_0127.jpg]
[Image: http://i985.photobucket.com/albums/ae335...3_0134.jpg]
[Image: http://i985.photobucket.com/albums/ae335...3_0142.jpg]
[Image: http://i985.photobucket.com/albums/ae335...3_0146.jpg]
M R Radios C M Tubes
(This post was last modified: 10-07-2014, 11:34 AM by Steve Davis.)
Posts: 236
Threads: 43
Joined: Oct 2010
City: Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Thanks. I was thinking of that. Ill see if I can get it off.
The top and sides are also coming apart. I thought of making a curved piece of wood to match the curve, but I will need an inside and outside piece to clamp it right or it will crack. Is there a better way?
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Hey, I recognize that 89B front arch!
[Image: http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k420/...g~original]
SteveJB, what Steve D. didn't tell you is that this 89B cabinet had been repaired by a previous owner, who did a sloppy job. In addition, the top/side veneer was splitting and delaminating. It looks like a new 89B now, with many thanks to Steve D.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 236
Threads: 43
Joined: Oct 2010
City: Atlantic Highlands, NJ
It looks great.
That's a bit like my problem. The sides, top and front are de-laminating. Whats the best way to repair it is the main problem for me.
Posts: 1,401
Threads: 70
Joined: Oct 2007
City: Linn Creek, MO
Ron, I thought you might recognize this cabinet.
Steve
M R Radios C M Tubes
Posts: 1,463
Threads: 97
Joined: Jul 2012
City: Poughkeepsie, N.Y.
Posts: 1,401
Threads: 70
Joined: Oct 2007
City: Linn Creek, MO
Steve, when the wrap-around is badly delaminating, for me it is easier to make a new one rather than try to repair the original.
Steve
M R Radios C M Tubes
Posts: 228
Threads: 64
Joined: Dec 2013
City: Northbrook, IL
SteveJB,
I always remove the front section prior to refinishing.My 16B front panel was pretty stubborn. You can try soaking the seam with a lacquer thinner and carefully pry it out inch by inch. One important thing- there is a wooden block on the bottom. It hides 2 screws and needs to be removed to take them off. Personally, I would replace veneer without removing the arch.
Posts: 236
Threads: 43
Joined: Oct 2010
City: Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Thanks for the help. I have all the screws out, but the face seems like it is glued in tight. Ill keep trying.
I thought of making a new wrap around but it may be over my skill level. Only the top layer is coming off. Maybe I could glue a new walnut veneer in place of that.
Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
|
Recent Posts
|
Correct model 84 Ac plug an cord type
|
From what I read Philco went to using brown rubber power cords in 1936, so cloth was used in the 1935 and earlier models...Arran — 11:25 PM |
Correct model 84 Ac plug an cord type
|
Hi Bruce,
I have not worked on an 84, but in general, power cords for almost any radio prior to 1938 was cloth covered...MrFixr55 — 08:34 PM |
Restoring Philco 38-14
|
OK, well, so after staring at the sch again, I realized the problem had to be the #12/12A padder.
I put a scope on the o...morzh — 08:15 PM |
Correct model 84 Ac plug an cord type
|
Hello Bruce,
I mostly use brown far as my cloth powercords go !
Here is the plug that I have used bakelite Acorn style...radiorich — 08:05 PM |
Correct model 84 Ac plug an cord type
|
Looking for as correct as can find the right Ac plug an the correct colored cloth line. Ive seen many old photos but mos...Bruce — 04:13 PM |
Restoring Philco 38-14
|
Rod
Two Y-caps make sense if you use them from L/N to the chassis; this is only makes sense in the transformer radios...morzh — 10:11 AM |
Restoring Philco 38-14
|
Mike, I'm curious about a specific use of he Y cap. Lately I've seen a single cap across the power transformer primary. ...RodB — 09:01 AM |
Restoring Philco 38-14
|
hello morzh ,
That sounds like a plan !
Sincerely Richardradiorich — 07:45 AM |
Restoring Philco 38-14
|
Richard,
It helped some, but I still had the whining when engaging the rear power strip (I did not realize it was fro...morzh — 07:07 AM |
Restoring Philco 38-14
|
Hello morzh,
Yes , that dreaded hum in my room where i do alighment I have my cable modem and router plus desktop plus ...radiorich — 11:25 PM |
Who's Online
|
There are currently no members online. |
|
|