Just bought 37-620 want to get it working
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City: Glendale, CA
Doctormap,
Sorry to hear about your speaker damage, but it can easily be fixed. I've used Aleene's Original Tacky Glue and a used dryer sheet for reinforcement over the tear. Aleene's glue is flexible and dries clear and can be found at Joann's Fabric or Michaels. The dryer sheet, after it has been used, is very light and very strong. You can probably find a You Tube video that shows how to do this. I'm sure you'll also get some more advice on this as well.
I would recommend cutting a round piece of cardboard to cover the speaker cone to protect it from further damage.
Tom
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City: Sedona, AZ/Placentia/CA
Doc, a picture of the cone would be helpful. Many hints on cone repair, none of which I know of using superglue! I prefer diluted elmer's white glue with a patch that fits the tear. I have used a piece of paper towel as a bridge. Do a search here and you will have a lot of hits on speaker repair.
Jerry
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
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Joined: Sep 2014
City: Springfield, MO
I just got the new electrolytic capacitors in the mail from antique electronic supply, and the new glass tube, so I am anxious to get them installed. One step closer to getting it up and running.
Just a silly question: I am a bit confused as to the function of the two side knobs. I am assuming that the right side knob is volume control, and the left one is power on and off, but it seems to have three settings. On, off, and what else?
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Doc, just guessing as it has been a while working on one of these but probably tone settings? Does that knob/switch have also a couple caps in a can attached? It appears it does. Look at the schematic attached and follow the dotted line from the on/off switch to the cap set up for tone.
Jerry
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...013222.pdf
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
(This post was last modified: 10-20-2014, 04:40 PM by jerryhawthorne.)
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City: Jackson, NJ
BTW these caps also need to be replaced (folks sometimes forget about them).
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City: Springfield, MO
Yeah, right. I see that, now. No. 56 got by me, it was hidden under some wiring, but I got 57 done.
I have seen comments by others about replacing the bakelite caps (No. 67). Is that also something that should be done? If so, I will include that in my next order from Antique Electronics Supply.
I see in the parts list No. 18 is a 16 mfd electrolytic cap. Is that the can on top of the chassis that has two 8 mfd caps in it? I bought two 8's to replace it. I was planning to just put them under the chassis, as they are not very big.
In replacing caps, No. 35 is listed as a 0.05 mfd cap, but when I took it out, it was marked as a 0.25 mfd cap. I replaced it with a 0.25 cap. It was an original Philco, so maybe there was a change somewhere in production?
No. 62 is listed as a 12 mfd electrolytic cap. I have read that I should replace that one with a larger cap, like 20 mfd instead of 12. Is that correct?
Thanks again for the advice. The more I read the forum comments, the more soldering I am doing.
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City: Jackson, NJ
You cannot really "replace" the backelites - no one makes them.
What you do is either replace them with modern caps or, if you want more authentic looking under-chassis, you restuff the backelites with modern caps.
ALL CAPS other than mica caps have to go.
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State, Province, Country: OR
Here's morzh's procedure for stuffing the bakelite blocks.
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City: Sedona, AZ/Placentia/CA
Mike's process is very close to what I do and "most" of the bakelite blocks can be handled just like that. There may be a couple that just have so many wires that are short to not allow the cap to be rotated enough to stick the new caps back in and a wire or two may have to removed from the top. Not many. I also have my small appropriate sized drill bit and my hand cranked old manual drill I use to cut the wires, just the right size to match the hole diameter and a half of turn and you can feel the wire snap. That drill works well on the very occasional blocks I have come across that have the hole filled with solder to drill through that mess. Mike's process is great.
Best, Jerry
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
Posts: 13
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Joined: Sep 2014
City: Springfield, MO
Ahhh. Right. I wasn't going to try to restuff the bakelite caps, just replace them with new modern polypropylene caps, like I did with all the other ones.
Thanks for your time. I appreciate it.
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City: Horsham, PA
Doc,
I recently finished a 37-630 which is a similar set. It sounds like you are in good hands with everyone else's help. Let me know if you need a photo or anything along those lines. Good luck.
Jon
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City: Poughkeepsie, N.Y.
Doc Welcome to the best forum on the web. A whole bunch of good people here to help!
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