[Ron Ramirez]

While my 42-720 project is on hold, I've started on another Philco.

This time the subject is a Philco (Canada) model 39. This set is identical in appearance to the USA-made 41-722 Tropic.

You can see one here - just scroll down to model 41-722.

There are some chassis differences between the Canadian 39 and the Tropic 41-722. Besides the lack of rubber-covered wiring in the 39 (other than the IF transformer leads), the 39's power supply differs from the 41-722. The 39 uses an 80 rectifier and has the conventional bakelite block with the AC line connected to this block. The 41-722 uses an 84 rectifier, has no AC bypass bakelite block but does use two .003 uF caps between rectifier plates and ground.

So these differences alone make me appreciate the 39 more.

Here's a look under the hood.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...e00001.jpg]

These are the kind of sets I like working on the least - because someone was in here before me, and did a very sloppy job. I intend to get rid of the rat's nest of wires that includes two electrolytics dangling in air, and restuff the original electrolytic cans with new electrolytics. I will also use some old paper capacitors, remove the old guts, and restuff them with new capacitors and install these in place under the chassis.

You can follow along by looking over the following schematics (warning: large files so long downloads on anything less than DSL):

Philco Canada 39 (409.6 kb)
Philco Tropic 41-722 (376.8 kb)

[Ron Ramirez]

I started on this project yesterday, and here's the progress as of mid-morning today:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...e00002.jpg]

In this case, the paper caps you see are the new capacitors.

I'm going by the 41-722 service info because the Canadian diagram is much harder to read, plus it has no under-chassis drawing. I have found that the circuitry agrees with the 41-722 save for the power supply as mentioned in my first post in this thread.

There is a 5 pF mica cap, part (16A) on the 41-722 schematic. One lead of this mica cap broke off short as I was replacing resistor (7), so it will require replacement.

I'll also have to come up with a speaker connector - the original (the part that plugs into the back of the speaker) is missing. Unlike most 1939-1942 Philcos which use four terminals, this one uses three; much like a mid-30s RCA. I do not know if an RCA 3-pin connector would be an exact fit or not as I do not own any of those sets.

[Arran]

 I hate it when people install radial lead electrolytics and leave them hanging in space by the leads. At the very least they could bundle them together and clamp them to the inside of the chassis with something, nylon cable tie, locking wire, a strip of All Round with a screw nuts, and washers. Someone didn't have their head screwed on straight leaving those green Sangamo "Little Chiefs" in place, those are one of the few paper caps I have had get hot and attempt to spew it's contents out the the end.
 I'm not sure about the speaker connector, but the Canadian RCA, G.E and Philco sets that I have from that era all used the same four pin connectors, I think they were made either by Amphenol or Ebby. The plug part had four pins, two were closer together then the other two, and was mounted on the back of the speaker, the socket portion was on the end of the speaker cable. 
Regards
Arran

[Ron Ramirez]

If anyone is interested, here's my progress so far:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...e00003.jpg]

I think I've replaced all of the old carbon resistors now. Both IF transformers have been removed for the necessary rewiring. I've also removed the original electrolytic cans in order to cut each open, restuff with new electrolytics, and reseal.

I noticed a problem with the volume control.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...e00004.jpg]

Notice anything missing? Let's take another look:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...e00005.jpg]

That's right - this control had no loudness tap!

A trip to the junk parts stash revealed a Philco 2 meg control with 1 meg tap, exactly what was needed:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...e00006.jpg]

Of course, the shaft on this control is too short, so a coupling and a shaft extension will be added in the near future.

I also find that I do not have enough old paper caps to restuff every capacitor, so I will look at the few junk chassis I have left to see if I can come up with enough.

[Ron Ramirez]

I found a couple Philco speaker jacks tonight; both are missing one of the connections, so between the two I can make one good one.

I also found one old 0.25 uF paper cap that I can gut and restuff with a new 0.22 uF cap. I have the other four needed caps (three 0.0068 uF, one 0.0022 uF) restuffed and ready to install.

[NostalgiaRadioTime]

Looking good, Ron! 

[Arran]

 I think I know what you meant about the speaker connector, there was a three pin type used in some Canadian RCA and G.E models in the early 40s, but I don't think any of my sets use them, the pin spacing is the same as a three pin "B" battery plug, I believe that they were made by Ebby. I think I may have some someplace. With regard to the volume control, sometimes you can swap shafts and wiper between controls, if they are both controls of the same make, that "C" clip can be pried out and pressed back on.
Regards
Arran

[Joe Rossi]

Hi Ron.  Where did the pictures go?      Joe  EDIT:  Never mind, they just showed up!  

[Ron Ramirez]

Probably a Photobucket hiccup. It happens every now and then. Sorry.

[Kekoa]

If you need any more paper caps, I've got a bag full that I took out of the 53-960 that you are welcome to have. Might be something in there you can use.

[Ron Ramirez]

Kekoa: I'll take them....

All: Here is where I stand on the Canadian 39 at present.

I removed the original guts from the paper 0.25 uF cap I found yesterday, restuffed it with a new 0.22 uF cap, and installed it in the radio.

Both electrolytic cans were opened up, the old guts removed, and new electrolytics installed. One of the two had a thick paper outer covering; this will be reinstalled, but I am not going to reattach/reglue the upper aluminum shell which was hidden under the thick paper housing. I did reassemble the other aluminum electrolytic can, using J-B Weld to hold the pieces together. That will have to cure overnight.

I also rewired both IF transformers. Both of these have threaded adjustment slugs, and the entire assembly of each transformer is held in place by two "keepers," if you will, each of which screws onto each of the two threaded slugs and is tightened against the aluminum housing of each IF transformer. I'll provide a photo or two of this tomorrow. Anyway, these dig into the aluminum, weakening it and making it prone to cracking/breaking at the point of contact. One of the transformer housings partially broke at one of the "keepers," so I went around all four joints with a little J-B Weld to strengthen the housings at these points. Again, photos tomorrow to illustrate what I am trying to explain. I have only seen these types of IF transformers in many 1938 Philcos; in some Mystery Control Philco chassis; and in the larger Tropic models.

[Arran]

 A minor detail though, capacitors used in Canadian radios usually say "Made in Canada" on them, I'm not sure about Philco branded capacitors but some like the Aerovox ones also have a date code. But so long as the graphics look the same, and you have the "Made in USA" part turned upward, nobody will ever know.
  In terms of joining aluminium filter capacitor cans back together, the easiest way is to use aluminium duct or muffler tape to fasten the top back on, I would use that even if it was hidden under a cardboard sleeve since the cardboard can be crushed.
Regards
Arran

[Ron Ramirez]

 A minor detail though, capacitors used in Canadian radios usually say "Made in Canada" on them...

Point taken, but since this radio no longer had any of its original caps, I'm going to leave the restuffed caps as they now are and I am not going to redo the work I have done. (I don't have any Canadian paper caps, anyway, and I only have a very limited supply of USA paper cap shells.)

I've used aluminum duct tape on electrolytics before. I did not use it here as I cut the electrolytics open at the point just above where the base is enlarged for the twist-lock tabs. Again, photos tomorrow. As for the thick paper cover getting crushed, it was taller than the can inside was anyway...and there is no reason why it should get crushed...

I will have to look again tomorrow, but I think the electrolytic cans are both stamped "Made in U.S.A."

Above all, I am pretending this is a 41-722 Tropic, since it is identical to one save for having the 80 tube instead of an 84.

[radiohenry]

Ron,
  I also have a model 39 in a similar state as yours . Mine went back on the shelf while waiting for a tapped volume control to arrive and I have not gotten back to it yet. The filter caps were replaced as well. I believe there are some misswiring issues as well due to the incorrect control and the filters so I will really appreciate your under chassis pictures. They will surely help me sort things out.I agree that the model 39 schematic is difficult to follow.
  It would be real nice to see a bottom view of an unmolested example.
                                           Thanks for sharing.
                                                         Henry

[Ron Ramirez]

Henry - I will try to take some pictures for you, but keep in mind this area is rather "tight" and will be difficult, I think, to get the shots that I think you need to see.

Keep in mind that the Canadian 39 is identical to the USA Tropic 41-722 except for the power supply. The 41-722 service info is more complete, with an under-chassis view, parts list, alignment info, etc. The 41-722 schematic is also much easier to read. This may help you with your set.

I've reassembled both IF transformers, and have those and the two electrolytics mounted back on the chassis. I've taken several photos, but Photobucket isn't working for me this morning, so I will post those later.