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City: Tustin
State, Province, Country: California
Morzh...
How's the cabinet on your radio? I just looked it up and the 808A really has a nice cabinet.
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City: Jackson, NJ
It is good in fact, other than there are those two decorative chequered pieces in the front, one of which is missing.
Need to recreate it.
Posts: 15,444
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City: Jackson, NJ
Fixed the power switch (same type as it is in Philco Transitones), same reason, oxidation, alcohol wipe an deoxit took care of it. While at it, lubed the pot.
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City: Jackson, NJ
11-09-2014, 07:58 PM
First of, I was able to open that darn capacitor block. I am not sure why it was refusing to come out when the whole thing was bubbling, the paper was not tarred, it was a regular wax paper. Anyway, I decided to heat the seams, then brushed of the solder and separated them, and then open the whole thing up and removed the cap block.
The can looks like a croc. Or an alligator. That is their head when it is sold separately in souvenir stores.
Some pics.
The alligator.
The electrolytic bottom.
I used a copper-plated rivet mandrel (very stiff) and re-used original soldering lug.
Then I glued all together (with caps inside and some plumbing parts to keep the cap sturdy)
And put it in place. The seam is covered by the clamp so it cannot be seen, all you see is the body and the original soldering lug.
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Some wires:
This is the black wire:
This is the beige wire:
I have a piece of white (looks beige) insulation, I was able to tie a nod out of it, very nice and pliable. Did not degrade a bit. None of them did.
But all black ones are fully crumbled.
This is how the working surface looks due to it.
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City: Sandwick, BC, CA
I'm sure the metal parts were quite well made, A.K was well equipped to manufacture much of that, even had their own plating department, but some things, like the resistors with the metal ends, are a throwback to the 20s construction wise. It's not that I like rubber wire but the underside of that 808A is much less of a nightmare then that cheaper 6 tube model, but I think it's older as well, 1933 verses 1935, and it looks like they took a few notes from RCA/G.E about how to shield coils. As for the tube sockets, I don't tend to get to excited about wafer socket construction as a rule, even though everybody seems to have used them, including Stromberg Carlson.
Other then the Capeharts, Magnavox, and McMurdo Silver sets I don't think most of these were intended to be in service more then 20 years after they bought them. Speaking of rubber wire, that stuff was starting to parish by the middle 1950s, I have an article from a repairman talking about overhauling a late 20s early 30s majestic, it may have been a 90, and the rubber had dried up and turned to dust even by that time.
Regards
Arran
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I do know the label says 808A. Found discrepancy in volume in 2nd det wiring.
Thought a bit, decided to look at 808 sch. Sure enough.....hate it.
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City: Jackson, NJ
Chippin' away at it. Most crumbled wire under the main chassis is replaced. There are quite a few wires that feel soft and did not crack, and do not crack when moved. I will leave those in place.
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City: Jackson, NJ
Rewiring iz dun.
Or so I hope.
I left many wires untouched, especially white-yellow and brown, those have not deteriorate at all, I replaced most red ones and almost all black ones.
I left three black wires in place: Ground connections going inside coils. Was very involved to change them, but I replaced those blacks that were not ground.
Also by some miracle these three did not defoliate. But if they do, they will be Gnd wires touching Gnd, so I thougt, screw it, will leave them alone.
Many resisors are within reason so I left them be, and the single cap I left is the quad tracking cap, it has no DC bias across it. If eeded, will repace.
Now, transformer seems to be fine, gives both correct filament voltages and high votage too.
Well, a litte breather, tubes go in....
Oh when the tubes are marching in
Oh when the tubes are maching in,
Oh yeah I want to see
No smoke coming,
When the tubes are marching in.
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Well....first I dd not get it, I put the rectiier in, got high vots, waited a few secs, then turned it off....the voltage stayed which means the tubes did not conduct.
After three attempts I decided simply to wait and monitor theboutput tube pate voltage..when 450V droped dwn to 220V I realized we are onducting, turned it off and the voltage disappeared.
Then was the grid touch test - we have a good solid buzz.
No reception as yet.
(This post was last modified: 12-06-2014, 09:51 PM by morzh.)
Posts: 15,444
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City: Jackson, NJ
OK, while touching grids, I realized the buzz stops at 1st Det, checked the voltage at K, was 54V. Too much.
The cathode flexible resistor 2kOhm was opened.
Changed it.
Now it is normally receiving BC band and at two SW bands.
The last one does not get anything...but then I just looked at the dial, it is 1.5MC to 4.5MC...I am not even sure it is supposed to get anything.
Anyways, I will attempt the alignment tomorrow, this will show if the band is working.
But.....I wasn't hoping it would sing today, so.....nice end for the day.
(This post was last modified: 12-06-2014, 11:50 PM by morzh.)
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City: lawrenceville nj
great job mike
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City: Roslyn Pa
Gotta love that Mike even his finger is a piece of test equipment!!!!
Got a cold can't sleep for now.
Terry
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Are you guys together or something? 3:30am....
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City: Roslyn Pa
We tried it but just didn't work out!!
Terry
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