[Ron Ramirez]

Okay.

In July of 2013, I acquired this radio at the MARC Extravaganza. I wrote about it at the time in this thread.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...62_001.jpg]

I'm starting a new thread because the original lasted five pages without my actually doing any work to the radio. In this thread, I am going to attempt to get it going again.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...62_002.jpg]

This will be my Christmas/New Year's 2014/2015 project. I am restoring this set in memory of Little Joe, my grandson who passed away a week ago today. When I complete the radio, it will be given to Joseph's parents.

Before starting, I wish to acknowledge, and thank again, Phorum member "thirtiesradio" for the 9-S-262 dial parts which I will be using in this restoration. (No, I didn't forget...other projects just got in the way.)

So...

As you will recall from my previous thread on this radio, this chassis is a hack job. Since then, I did acquire another 9-S-262 chassis that has a lot of rust. I was going to use it as a parts donor, but I now have this crazy idea about cleaning its chassis and restoring it, also. Am I nuts or what?

I have to ask this question: Why do you people love Brand Z so much? I set the 9-S-262 chassis on my bench, took a good look at it, shook my head, and walked away. The Rider's info only includes a schematic, parts list, and alignment info. I admit, I am spoiled to having excellent documentation for working on Philco radios. The lack of complete documentation in the Brand Z info is ridiculous.

Oh, I'll go back, and I'll start plugging away, a little at a time. This one is for Little Joe, after all, so Grandpa will honor his silent commitment.

Besides doing something about the volume control, and lengthening the shaft on the off-on-local-distance switch I already installed (but haven't yet hooked up), I see that the multi-section Candohm resistor will need to be replaced.

I'll be carefully studying Geoff's 9-S-262 restoration thread. I hope to hear from you Brand Z fans, also - I am really going to need your help with this one, I think.

[Geoff]

I have to ask this question: Why do you people love Brand Z so much?

Simple... eye candy and the shutter dial is pretty cool.  No bakelite block capacitors and the chassis is less crowded and easier to work on.  While I agree that Philco radios are probably better engineered and may even sound better then Brand Z (but I suppose there are people that will debate that) the cabinet designs leave a little bit to be desired IMHO.  But that didn't stop me from picking up the 37-116 a few weeks back.  I'm looking forward to working on that one!

Any help I can offer on your 9S262 just let me know.

- Geoff

[Ron Ramirez]

I see Mike (morzh) also had a thread on one of these:

http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread...th+9-s-262

I found, and downloaded, Geoff's under-chassis drawing. That should help me out a great deal, so thanks, Geoff!

[morzh]

Ron

Well, eventually you got to it.

The two common problem you are likely to meet (and there will be others that are not so common) is the Candohm being bad and the eye tube socket.

I see you have already met the first one, the other is best dealt with at the end when the radio is working.
The way I fixed it is at the very end of that thread of mine you have just listed here.

Adamsradio.com makes drive belts for almost all radios, this one included.

[morzh]

Geoff

This particular one, 9-S-262 exceeded all my Philcos in sound quality except, yep, you guess it, 37-116. When I plugged that baby in, it put the Z to shame. Not lots of shame, considering it is a Hi-Fi radio. But Z does sound very good.

[Ron Ramirez]

I just noticed that I forgot to post a "before" photo of how the underside of the chassis looks at present...

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...62_003.jpg]

Like I said, a hack job...

[thirtiesradio]

Yea, the person who worked on that 9 tuber did some shoddy work. The candohm is almost always bad.  Be real careful with the coil just below the SW padder and ON/Local/Distance switch as the fine wires are easy to break off. I've had to locate and resolder several of those hair thin wires and solder doesn't stick well to them.

[morzh]

Oh...I also had an open coil, the RF amp plate load part.

An easy job, very few turns.

[Arran]

 I believe that brand Z used to acquire speakers from an outside speaker manufacturer like Utah or Lansing (though I can't remember which) so that would make a difference in sound quality. As for the build quality, the most obvious example of corner cutting is in the power transformers. As for the shutterdials, whilst somewhat interesting in the end it's still a black and white painted tin dial, even the big black back lit dials before them were just a back lit piece of celluloid, compare those to what other manufacturers had to offer, back painted glass, sometimes back painted and etched glass, and mirrored too in the case of some high end Sparton models. The motor drive mechanism is about as crude as one can get, no presets, just a spring loaded switch.
 I think a lot of their appeal comes down to the fact that it's a name people recognize more since they were the last U.S owned TV manufacturer in the U.S, until they produced some sets with really crappy CRTs in the 90s, wrecked their reputation, and were ultimately bought out by LG. So I think that it's part nostalgia about the brand, and part reverse projection regarding the quality, from the late 1950s until the early 90s they built some of the best TVs out there, but whilst they were trying to beat out Philco and RCA in the radio business in the 1930s and 40s they were almost a cut rate brand that used flashy things like gold paint, big dials, bloated tube counts, and tone organs to sell their products. 
Regards
Arran

[thirtiesradio]

When replacing the motor drive belt I always leave a little slack in it. If tight they won't run smooth or at all. I bought a couple radios that the motor drive worked great for a couple seconds, then it slowed down or stopped. A looser belt replacement always fixed the problem.

[Geoff]

Also, on the motor drive, there are two felt washers. I placed several drops of oil on them for lubrication. The oil I used was from a Lionel train maintenance kit I have. It is a light machine oil.

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Geoff]

Here is a technique I found showing how you can replace the candohm if needed:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-05OmK...sp=sharing

The candohm is P/N 63-570. Here is a Zenith component catalog. 63-570 is listed on page 13 (PDF page 14). It calls out the resistance and wattage of each section of the candohm:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-05OmK...sp=sharing

[Ron Ramirez]

Excellent info, Geoff - thanks!

I was going to ask about the wattages of the Candohm sections.

[Ron Ramirez]

Well, this afternoon I finally stopped procrastinating, and dived into the 9-S-262.

Here are the results so far.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...62_004.jpg]

As there was only one original Brand Z paper cap under the chassis, I am making no attempt to restuff caps in this set.

So far, four capacitors and two resistors have been replaced, and I've prepared the new off-on-sensitivity switch for hookup.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...62_005.jpg]

I shortened the shaft of the new switch somewhat, so that there is room for the shaft coupling and the switch indicator that will attach to the length of shaft which I will have to cut and install on the shaft coupling.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...62_006.jpg]

[sam]

ron
what is the name of that adapter piece in last pic with allen screws in it
and where can I get them
they look like the may work on the bol turn table drive motors
sam