[morzh]

Thanks Sam,

but don't you forget: this is KIRK's radio.
Now, do you really still want to give me those 45s ?

[OldRestorer]

He didn't say "give" anywhere that I read.....

Kirk

[sam]

Hmm your right mike
He dose keep calling. Me old and slow 

[OldRestorer]

Awww,
I'm sorry, want me to get you a tissue so you can dry your tears?

Lets play a game, It's called "fix my chassis"

Kirk

[morzh]

OK.


The coils all fixed.
No short in the load.

Now.
First no sound at all. Suspected the speaker.
Then upon reinserting detector tube heard the buzz when touching the grid.
Then with the screwdriver touching det grid heard reception. Weak.
Touching the previous tube gives even weaker one.
Antenna gives zero.

Well, it is a progress, good high voltage and some life.
Now. I supect part of the problem is the fild coil, might not drop enough and the output plate voltage is 340V whereas should be 225V. Could screw things up.
Even adjusted for a DMM reading it is too high.

Will try some gimmicks....


PS. Kirk, were you able to measure field resistance on your speaker?


P.P.S. Adding 2.2K in series with the FC took extra 30V from the output pate but did not improve the reception.

[OldRestorer]

Cant locate the meter anywhere. Think it is packed up.

[sam]

mike
you know you can`t relie on kids today, he can`t even keep his garage clean
no lease find some thing in there

kirk
you keep it up I`m going back to mafiamen2
and your mom`s gona get a radio in the bag meaning you sleep with the fish`s 8)
me

[OldRestorer]

Took a minute but finally got it.

Kirk

[morzh]

He sleeps with the fishes or his radios do? Or he sleeps wi' his radios in the old garage?
There are rats out there, ya'know...they ate coils off of some radios, they can eat other thingies too off you while you are asleep.

Let's not get cruel here.

[morzh]

OK. First good nooz.

The radio sings loud.
The problem was bad soldering of divider resistors so none of the toobs really conducted except the output one (hence the weak reception), as all SGs were at 0V. What drew my attention was that all plates were sitting at 320V and this was also the B+. So I measured the SG dividers....sure'nuff.

Now bad nooz is the tuning cap or chassis as a whole when touched gets scratchy and, as if there is had connection, and the reception goes away.
There is also howling when the volume is at the max or close.

But...progress.

[morzh]

Better news, it s not a bad connection, it is oscillation of a sort. When volume is reduced so the oscilation quits, tuning is no longer scratchy and tapping anything no longer produces rumbling and scratch. And the sound is good.

[KCMike]

Good to see you're almost there. Is that fixable or was it just too much volume?

[morzh]

Yep, too much volume....but I want to fix it as weak stations come in at higer volume position.
Also need to try an antenna.
The antenna wire inside is shielded and the shield is GND-ed.

Still could be parasitics.

[morzh]

Oh for Pete's sake....the alignmentbof this poor semblance of a radio is one by using a GDO.
Yeah right...here I am rushing to buy a GDO to resonate possibly one and only JB62 I ever gonna see.
And it is done with cold tubes.

Maybe I could do that with a scope and oscillator observing resonance.

Well.....maybe Sunday.
Tomorrow I am off to a friend, to drink for a safe arrival of the soul of a mutual friend to heaven, he died three days back, and to reminisce of good auld times when everyone was young, healthy and heart failure was not in the vocabulary.

'Till Sunday then!

[Arran]

Arran

Thanks, good info.
BTW how does windshield adhesive behave on hot glass? If we think of the same subtance, it is a flexible hermetic sealer, right?

As for the tube itself, at this point I am not planning to toss it as even a weaker output tube might very well work just fine, as so do my 6A5 on 37-116 who are, relative to their required minimum, even weaker but still work great.

Mike;
  I found out about the windshield adhesive trick from Bob Andersen, he uses it to reattach the bases onto picture tubes.  I bought the black version of the Permatex brand, he used the clear, both work well, it's a type of silicone I think, but without the acetic acid so it shouldn't corrode anything, it also means it should be able to stand some heat. It cleans up with lacquer thinner if there is any residue. I used it on a #47 and on a #24 that I took apart to resolder the pins, it has some give and bonds the tube base quite strongly to the glass. the #24 repair was successful, the #47  less so though it did read less weak.
Regards
Arran