[ProgressCity]

Hi Everyone,


Chuck Schwark recommended that I join these forums, and from what I've read so far, I love it! I recently took ownership of a 1928 Model 513 (Labrador Grey) that has unfortunately been somewhat molested over the years.

First off, this radio is my second attempt at a restoration, it hasn't overwhelmed me (yet), and quite frankly I'm really excited about getting this one working, as I've wanted a 511 series for quite sometime. Splitting the filter cap can open was a new experience .

Chassis elements I can deal with, but when it comes to painting such a pattern, well.... I'll have to concede defeat that this is beyond my knowledge and talent. Does anyone know a place that is reputable that is able to do a great job at the gradient and floral designs of this cabinet? Unfortunately the entire cabinet would need to be stripped because someone took a rattle can sometime in its history and spray painted the entire thing a flat charcoal grey.


Any help or suggestions would be great appreciated!


All the best,


-Damien

[ProgressCity]

I tried to edit my post to add...Someone took a rattle can of spray paint and completely painted the entire cabinet a charcoal grey at some point in its life. There's no salvaging anything original about the paint because it simply doesn't exist.

[klondike98]

Damien, welcome to the Phorum!  Not sure how I would tackle that restoration but hopefully someone here will have some thoughts.  If all else fails I might try to get a good quality photo or scan of the image from someone and get a water slide decal made at Kinkos....just s thought.

[OldRestorer]

You listened to Chuck? Thats new

Willkommen!

That is a hard one with all that detail. Hand painting is going to be very hard so I would also recommend somehow getting a decal. I would first try stripping the cabinet carefully. Rattle cans are a softer paint than the original philco paint. If you use easy off oven cleaner and don't leave it on too long that will do it but be careful. Otherwise alcohol and some #0000 steel wool or a rag and some elbow grease( not too much). Try the alcohol first then the oven cleaner.

Kirk

[ProgressCity]

Thanks!


Honestly, If I could just get the Grey gradient and rectangular pinstriping, I may have a local artist source that could replicate the floral designs. What I do need are some high quality photos to copy from.

2 other questions. What was the escutcheon made of? The one that's on this radio looks almost like a fake/reproduction of stamped aluminum and is ridiculously shiny and also silver. All of the ones I've seen have a brass look to them.

2. What color were the knobs on the Labrador Grey 513? The photos I'm finding online look like some were black and some were maroon.

[Arran]

 What I would suggest, before stripping the cabinet down to bare steel, is test the spray paint with some alcohol and see if it thins out or wipes off. Then, barring that, try dabbing a small section at a time with lacquer thinner and see if you can soften the paint and gently scrape it or scrub it off with 0000 steel wool. This will depend on how think the paint it of course. If the original paint finish can be salvaged with hand work that would be best, if the cabinet was stripped and repainted it basically becomes just slightly better then a Spanish Brown 511 repainted Labrador Grey, but if it's too far gone it's too far gone. Maybe investigate what a museum furniture conservator would do to get the spray paint off, they have to handle such things on a daily basis. With regard to the escucheon, as far as I know nobody has ever made reproductions of these, the original was bronze or brass, if it's aluminum looking then someone painted it that way.
Regards
Arran

[ProgressCity]

 What I would suggest, before stripping the cabinet down to bare steel, is test the spray paint with some alcohol and see if it thins out or wipes off. Then, barring that, try dabbing a small section at a time with lacquer thinner and see if you can soften the paint and gently scrape it or scrub it off with 0000 steel wool. This will depend on how think the paint it of course. If the original paint finish can be salvaged with hand work that would be best, if the cabinet was stripped and repainted it basically becomes just slightly better then a Spanish Brown 511 repainted Labrador Grey, but if it's too far gone it's too far gone. Maybe investigate what a museum furniture conservator would do to get the spray paint off, they have to handle such things on a daily basis. With regard to the escucheon, as far as I know nobody has ever made reproductions of these, the original was bronze or brass, if it's aluminum looking then someone painted it that way.
Regards
Arran

I tried with Lacquer thinner AFTER alcohol.   There's nothing original under there...JUST metal unfortunately.

I also soaked the escutcheon in lacquer thinner and then jasco paint stripper which is ridiculously strong stuff.  It's definitely not painted and is just a thin piece of what may be chromed metal, which means I now have to find the right escutcheon. I've attached 2 photos of the one that was on this radio. It pretty thin and flexible.

I DID however think about the paint restoration for a bit, and asked a friend of mine who's been featured countless times in vintage hot rod and car culture magazines for his work.    He's with a featured paint shop up in Yucaipa that's willing to take it on.  Coincidentally I'm heading up there tomorrow.

There are no records of the paint colors and codes that Philco used to paint these are there?  I figured since vintage car paint codes often turn up that I might be able to get the originals to accurately recreate the paint.

Thanks!

[Ron Ramirez]

There are no records of the paint colors and codes that Philco used to paint these are there?

Not that I am aware of. Ford once held Philco's archives in Dearborn but whether or not they still exist - and exactly what is in there if they do still exist - I do not know. It looks like Ford transferred all of their archives to the Benson Ford Research Center at the Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn. You can search their holdings online; it looks like they have Philco annual reports from 1940 onward as well as some sales literature, but not much else.

I am honored that they have a copy of my book.

Anyway...I've never heard of a 1928 Philco escutcheon being made of aluminum or steel, only brass. Maybe some were made of thin steel and brass plated? See if a magnet will stick to this metal.

The cabinet should be painted with lacquer paints for authenticity. I can furnish larger photos of the 513 than what is in the Gallery if needed, to help you in repainting.

I've seen a couple 513 sets. As I recall, their knobs were black.