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Honest assessments, please: First refinish job
#1

Hi all,

These are photos of my first-ever refinish, a Philco 37-670. The original finish was completely shot (crumbling and flaking, 70 percent gone) so this was the only option. I've wanted to learn for a while but have been hesitant; it seems so complicated, with so many nuances. My refinish consisted of stripping, cleaning, filling with Crystalac (poorly, I might add), toning and clear coating with Deft semigloss (about 10 coats, then sanded/tack ragged, then another five). I know it's an amateurish job, but I'm pretty happy with my first effort. Could anyone critique this please and give me some things to concentrate on next time? Thanks!

Ted
   
   
   
   
#2

Ted, for a first time, you did a great job! Much nicer than my first job. You are correct, a little weak on the grain filler particularly on the fret work on the speaker opening. I'm impressed for a first effort. On inside lighting (no flash on a camera) it will look just dandy.
Best, Jerry

A friend in need is a pest!  Bill Slee ca 1970.
#3

Very nice! For your first time I think you did fine.  The grain filling needs some more work, it sometimes takes a few passes to get the grain filled and smooth..I still have trouble getting it!  
#4

Heck, if I ever can do that, I'll get so high'n'mighty I won't speak to no one for a week.
#5

It looks good to me Icon_thumbup

Steve

M R Radios   C M Tubes
#6

Real nice job in my opinion. And just think, being your first attempt you will only get better as you go.
#7

Thanks everyone. That's pretty much what I expected (that I need to do a better job filling the grain). The next time, I may try a different filler. Crystallac is a PITA and if you don't clean it off quick, it turns into rock. I had to strip it with thinner the first time, as I left streaks. It also turns white inside the grain, so there are white speckles here and there that I can't get out. Oh well, live and learn. Someone recommended that I try Mohawk medium walnut oil-based toner as sort of a standard for this type/color radio. 
I appreciate the constructive criticism, thank you!
#8

Heckuva lot better than I'd have the patience for.  Icon_smile 

Fantastic job on that cabinet!

Chuck
#9

Some folks have used Constantines grain filler with success.  The last radio I did I used Timbermate thinned out with water to a goopy consistency, spread over the wood, scraped off with a plastic card when still moist and then sanded.  There are multiple colors of both products available.
#10

Looks very good. I would have used Perfect Brown instead of Extra Dark Walnut for the contrasting color, as these areas are not as dark as yours but darker than the Medium Walnut body. Otherwise, great job. Icon_thumbup

Now, don't strip it and redo. It looks just fine as is.

I too hate Crystalac, and I'll never use it again. I have had very good results with the Constantines filler, but I usually have to apply three coats to completely fill the grain.

Where do you find Deft? I can no longer buy it locally. Icon_mad

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#11

(02-13-2015, 01:01 PM)Ron Ramirez Wrote:  Where do you find Deft? I can no longer buy it locally. Icon_mad
Just bought Deft clear spray lacquer at Ace Hrdw. John
#12

OK, thanks. No Ace Hardware stores locally but there are some in and around Evansville.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#13

(02-13-2015, 01:01 PM)Ron Ramirez Wrote:  Looks very good. I would have used Perfect Brown instead of Extra Dark Walnut for the contrasting color, as these areas are not as dark as yours but darker than the Medium Walnut body. Otherwise, great job. Icon_thumbup

Now, don't strip it and redo. It looks just fine as is.

I too hate Crystalac, and I'll never use it again. I have had very good results with the Constantines filler, but I usually have to apply three coats to completely fill the grain.

Where do you find Deft? I can no longer buy it locally. Icon_mad

Ron, 
Deft's available in my local Ace Hardware store. If you want to load up on some, let me know and I'll buy/send you a bunch.
As for the dark color, it's actually not quite as dark as it looks in the pics; more like a dark brown. My iphone camera can't handle those colors Icon_smile
Again, agreed on the Crystalac. My one use scared me off !
#14

Looks great!!!

May sound crazy but being an automotive guy, I strip, sand,stain and then use  a Sherman Williams or R-M Satin Automotive clear coat. It takes about 3 to 4 coats sanding after each to fill the grain but end result is a smooth not too shiny finish that is rock hard and 100% bullet proof. I did my 38-116 and ahve had the dog scracth,hit,slobber, throw toys at it etc. with no damage at all. Candle wax washes off with hot water...absolutely wonderful finish.  
#15

 I think you could probably go back and fill the grain again, seal it, and then just coat over it, that's the beauty of using lacquer. I've heard nothing good about crystalac grain filler, Behlens and Constantine's seem to have a much better reputation. I've been experimenting with an Elmers wood filler product, it's water based and can be thinned and cleaned up fairly easily, but on an already sealed cabinet. These cabinets were finished in a gloss lacquer, which was then rubbed out for a burnished look, rather like a piano or a formal dining room table, which was glossier then semi gloss but less glossy then plastic or glass. Semi gloss sort of looks all right but satin looks completely wrong, but many still insist on using it.
 With few exceptions oil stain belongs in the garbage can, it was never used on radio cabinets, now if you want to use aniline dye or fabric dye to darken the bland junk wood I think that's a good plan since it cuts down of how much shading lacquer you need to use. I would be very reluctant to use an automotive clear coat on a radio cabinet, not only is it not designed for wood a lot of that is polyurethane which is murder to get off should something happen to it, or if you made a mistake. Given the track record of clear coat on many cars it's not unusual to see it discolour and peel off, and that's on top of what is supposed to be a non porous surface, wood expands and contracts much more.
Regards
Arran




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