Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Silvertone 45 chassis
#61

Just ordered the acrylic CC.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#62

I would use Q-Dope, mainly because I already have some on hand:

Quote:Q-Dope is a solution of pure polystyrene in solvents. Dries fast and leaves a clear, protective coating on coils and transformers, with no or minimal effect on inductive values. May also be used as a cement for molded or fabricated items made of polystyrene. 2 oz. bottle.

Ron, that is interesting info on the silicone.  

John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
#63

Q-dope, is it the Corona Dope by the same company? Used it before. Not sure whether it is benign on wire lacquer, I remember strong acetone smell.
Might be a different one though.

The silicone Ron was referring to was likely a potting silicone rubber or sealant, not likely a conformal coating. I do not think a conformal coating specifically recommended for PCBs would be popular if it were copper-corrosive. Then a product that is different, and is silicone-based, might be.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#64

Yeah, I doubt that a conformal coating made for PCB work would be corrosive to cooper.  I think what Ron was referring to was something like a silicone caulk, which I would not have thought it to be corrosive to cooper either, so that's good to know.  Otherwise I might have used some to re-pot with sometime.

Since Q-Dope is safe for coils I don't think it would harm the coating on the wire, but it sure wouldn't be a bad idea to test it first!

John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
#65

Actually all coils in Atwater Kent are potted with something really black and shiny, looks like Q-dope. Made it impossible to re-wire. Had to solder to existing rubber-coated wire and heat shrink.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#66

(02-18-2015, 06:16 PM)Eliot Ness Wrote:  Yeah, I doubt that a conformal coating made for PCB work would be corrosive to cooper.

Agreed.

Silicone caulk, however, is a definite no-no and will corrode copper.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#67

 What makes the silicone corrosive is not the silicone so much as the acetic acid often used as a curing agent, it has an vinegar smell to it. There are types of silicone that are safe around copper though, any automotive sealant marked as "Sensor Safe" would be all right to use, I suspect that Permatex windshield and glass adhesive may be safe as well since it does not have that vinegar smell. Varnish and wax are safe though, but some melt at too low of a temperature.
Regards
Arran
#68

Well, just to remind, we are talking of conformal coating.


It is not a caulk, it is not a bulk gooey stuff, it is not a sealant in a tube that one applies as a bead, it is a sprayed or brushed fairly quick drying substance to form a film. And it is intended to be used on electronics, namely on PCBs with copper conductors. So, silicone or not, it is inherently safe for most everything that is on the board or board itself, and all that contains copper.

There are always some components that require special treatment, like say Vicor power supplies explicitly warn against aqueous wash etc etc, so if there is a component is sensitive to conformal coating, or to a particular kind of it, it will be listed in its datasheet explicitly and conspicuously. What's more, the coating itself then would likely state "do not apply to copper parts" on the packaging label.

The key to safe and effective usage is using products according to their intended usage and observing labels/datasheets.

Granted we all sometimes have to use things off-label, then it is warranted that one does some research prior to doing this.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#69

Was just reading this thread, then happened across a similar radio on RadioAttic only minutes later for a completely unrelated reason.

Don't know if it's relevant to the thread, but thought I'd throw it in here:
http://www.radioattic.com/item.htm?radio=1000242
#70

Yes model 43 is close, so is model 41, but the 41 is the only sch that has been found so far.
There are differences though.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#71

weird because I have this radio but the escutcheon is a tiny bit different and the chassis is completely different it is a silvertone 1954.

Hmmm

Kirk


Attached Files Image(s)
       

Times I have been electrocuted in 2021
As of 1/01/2021
AC: 4 DC: 1
Last year: 6
#72

They obviosly used chassis from different mfrs.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#73

OK, got to the other coil.
Good news: the largest coil is open, was able to count turns.
The other two are good. I am inclined to reuse the bobbin and the two existing coils if it proves sturdy enough, as one of them is some thick litz wire, and I don't have any.

Will see....

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#74

This is the second coil.

Before

   
   

After

   
   
   

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#75

...and installed.


The wires coming from inside the chassis plus the ground wire attached to the bracket give it enough rigidity.....well, as it was before anyway. Otherwise I'd have to make a new bobbin, and then the whole coil would have to be re-wound.

   


Once the conformal compound comes, I will install the first coil, fix the wire on the IF coil underneath and ..... fire it up!

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.




Users browsing this thread: 3 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 16B Parts
The 16B's in the tombstone cabinet sport a 10 1/2" spkr vs the older cathedral sets which uses an 8". The p/p ...Radioroslyn — 12:58 AM
Philco 38-7 Oscillation
I have let this one sit because of other duties. Now I am back, and I have a couple of questions. I hooked up a Hammond ...tludka — 11:16 PM
Philco 38-7 Speaker
I know that when I first started working on this radio, I did not even have a speaker. Once I finally found one it was n...tludka — 11:00 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
I seem to remember eliminating a squeal by changing the IF frequency by a few KHz. Not that you should put too much tru...fenbach — 08:48 PM
Philco 42-390, code 121 speaker
These speakers pop up on eBay regularly, even if at bloated prices. Honestly, have not seen many parts on swapmeets.morzh — 08:38 PM
Philco 38-7 Speaker
The put-put is not like the speaker problem.morzh — 08:29 PM
Mission Bell Model 19A Car Radio
Hello everyone,  As mentioned in my last post I was going to see if the vibrator / rectifier section could be persuaded...Antipodal — 08:21 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
Wondering if I did it backwards. If a coil was wound backwards, the oscillator would not work at all. Old school...Chas — 07:23 PM
Philco 38-7 Speaker
4-ohm speaker. Black, Green leads.tludka — 07:00 PM
Philco 42-390, code 121 speaker
#87 on the schematic.  This radio had a 8" Zenith  speaker attached to it when I got it. I do don't know the hist...Stevelog — 06:39 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>