[OldRestorer]

I cant do it until I get to the house. It is snow storming right now.

Go Mike Go Mike! Ra Ra Ra!

[morzh]

Well, found all the missing toobs, 80, 6D6 and 75 that happened to be extremely weak.

Maybe I should go through resistors too, just to confirm they are not totally screwed up...

[morzh]

BROADCAST IS WORKING, VERY WELL!

(I really wanted to push this 'till maybe tomorrow...but then decided to try tonite. Will align this week).

[OldRestorer]

WooooHoooo!

[morzh]

Kirk,


Find as many photos of the chassis as you can.

1. Would be nice to know exact number of turns of that coil.
2. That sokder post underneath, I doubt that connection was there before. I don't think they would try to run lamps on that bias circuit - the current there is not adequate. I think that connection should go to the filament winding.

So, if you took phoos before you were doing recap, would help.

[morzh]

Another weird thing: the left lower pot looks like it is the tone ctl, however it does not change value in-circuit staying 500K whoch I think means open since it parallels the top pin of the vol pot to GND.
And it has just two pins.

Anyone knows what the heck it is?

[OldRestorer]

All the photos are on page 1 from before recapping.

I dont see any others that I have that arent posted.

Kirk

[morzh]

Kirk

For the future:

I take good resolution pics, and not just the whole thing, but by quadrants. Sometimes from different angles.
Like right now the pic of that soldering post where the big yellw cap solders to would help.

Now, to your recollection:

If you look (in your very first picture, look at the big cylindrical yellow cap oming to the 2-position sokder post)

1. Did the two psitions have a wire between them? (there was two thick bare copper wires sokdered to the pin other than the one where the cam solders to).
2. Was there a second wire coming to that pin?
3. What is the value of that big yellow cap?
4. Where was the opposite end of the cap going to, to the chassis or to the connection of the wires from electrolytics plusses on the 42 tube panel?

[OldRestorer]

The chassis is rewired exactly as it was.

Read Mike! as it says:

"Now on to the Ecaps, The box is 2 x 5 mfd so I replaced those with 2 4.7 mfd Ecaps. the large Ecap that was tacked in is 20 Mfd. This was just tacked in to make up for the other 2 I suppose so I just removed it.

I believe the cap was to the tie point in the pic but other end I don't remember.

Kirk

[morzh]

The reason I am asking, the lamps might not work the way they are.

The wire from the lamps tacks to the left post and then there was nothing else connected to it. Those two wire strands were just that, wire strands. When I removed the electrolyic wires I saw them for the first time and thought that they would short to the other post, but then thought some more and decided that would not work.

Well, I am quite sure the wire should've come to it from the seond filament wire, as the other connects to chassis and so do the lamps.

[OldRestorer]

just don't zap yourself !
Or the radio

Kirk

[morzh]

Well.

Aligned IF to 465kHz.

I am not sure if there are two or three bands. I think, three.
I have good reception on BC (and it is close to alignment) and SW (might not be aligned but receives well with my hand for an aerial).
The third band is...not sure what it , was able to get one station while holding antenna with my hand.

I have no sch, the 41 chassis is close but only where it comes to the tubes interonnect; the coils are different, and there are padders and trimmers.

I think we can leave it at that, it receives well, especially at BC and at least one SW band.


There is the volume pot which is a bit tight, and it is a replacement one judging by the shaft. I am a bit afraid to open it, so will leave it be.
Maybe one more session Thursday, to see what switch position is what SW band and enough.

BTW, the switch is weird....the moving part has wires soldered to it. Usually this is not the case, the moving part commutates the wires on the non-moving one.

[OldRestorer]

That was confusing.... :shocked:

Good work... I guess

Kirk

[morzh]

You guess?!!

This good for nothing rat lunch special piece of ... history actually works on at least two bands and you guess!
I will take it to Petco tomorrow and will let those Django and Remy types have their way with it.
Maybe they can align that coil.

[Arran]

Well.

Aligned IF to 465kHz.

I am not sure if there are two or three bands. I think, three.
I have good reception on BC (and it is close to alignment) and SW (might not be aligned but receives well with my hand for an aerial).
The third band is...not sure what it , was able to get one station while holding antenna with my hand.

I have no sch, the 41 chassis is close but only where it comes to the tubes interonnect; the coils are different, and there are padders and trimmers.

I think we can leave it at that, it receives well, especially at BC and at least one SW band.


There is the volume pot which is a bit tight, and it is a replacement one judging by the shaft. I am a bit afraid to open it, so will leave it be.
Maybe one more session Thursday, to see what switch position is what SW band and enough.

BTW, the switch is weird....the moving part has wires soldered to it. Usually this is not the case, the moving part commutates the wires on the non-moving one.

Mike;
  A drop of oil on the bush where the shaft comes out of the control may help the tightness somewhat, but given how many rodents decided to use this poor set as a urinal and buffet it would not surprise me if some got at the volume control too. As for the band switch I have a rotary switch like that in a Sentinel built "Musicaire" radio from around 1937-38 vintage, it too has three bands.
  Speaking of the bands on this Silvertone model 45, I would guess that the second short wave band with little activity on it was probably the old police band which ran between 1500 and 3500 kc or so, sometimes up to 5000 kc. The $64,000 question is will the dial be able to track with the rewound and replica coils?
Regards
Arran