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Safety Caps For Bakelite Block
#1

I rebuilt my Bakelite block using Y2 Safety Caps. I was thinking about using a 2 prong polarizing plug on the power cord, and then wiring the Off/On switch to the hot (L1) wire. Placing it ahead of the caps. this way the radio could be plugged in, but with the switch off, no power would be present on the caps. Is this alright to do? The Radio is a 40-190.
Thanks for any help
Bob
#2

I wouldn't bet my life on any AC socket being wired correctly, including 3 prong recepticles. The answer is "It depends."
#3

Hi codefox1
I know the recepticles are I would use are correct. So then are you saying this would be okay?
Bob
#4

There is nothing I am aware of that you can do to totally prevent a shock hazard with these antique radios. I am sure others will want to comment on this.
#5

Since its a transformer operated set the polarity really won't matter all that much. Good logic says put the switch on the hot side to cover the instances where it COULD matter and I think putting the caps after the switch is a good idea. And I'd put a fuse in there too!

I've never understood why they put the switch after the caps in so many sets? Maybe just a question of physical wiring convenience?

-Bill
#6

Bob, I did the same on my 37-650. The older radios were supposed to be un pluged when not in use so caps were on line side of switch. As for polarity on sockets, I own my own home and know that all the receptacles are wired correctly and I used a three wire plug. As for the safety caps, I found they sliped right in the bakelyte block with no problem. By the way, I don't remembe my grandfather ever pulling out that plug! PL
#7

Thank you everyone. I am going to go ahead and more the switch in front of the caps. Bill's idea of putting in a fuse sounds good to. I have to agree with Planigan, when I was younger all we had was a radio to listen too (late 1940's and early 1950's) and I don't remember having to plug it in before we turned it on Icon_razz. I hope this one will work because I did a total rewire and changed all the risistors and caps. Some of the resistors where creaked. Got a little work left, but I am sure I'll be asking for more help.
Bob
#8

Rather than putting a switch just in the hot side of the power cord, you can use a DPDT switch and switch both sides of the cord. That way even if the polarity of the outlet is not correct you won't accidentally have a "hot" neutral wire.......

In my opinion I would say that putting the switch prior to the safety caps is a good idea.
#9

Hi phly guy
A DPDT switch would be the positive way to insure an open circuit all around, but I want to use the original off/on switch.
I know that all the outlets in my house are wired correctly. I plan on keeping the radio so the single pole should be okay. Thanks for the input.
Bob
#10

Sure, that works. Sorry, I just got done building an all tube guitar amplifier from scratch, so I still have to get into the "restoration" frame of mind and think about originality rather than only functionality.....

John
#11

Hello John
The guitar amp you built was it a kit or did you design it your self?
#12

It was built "from scratch" based very very closely on plans from the folks at AX84.com, it's the P1 version, a single ended 12ax7, el84 amp putting out around 5 watts. Still plenty loud.

They do sell kits for it but I can't hack the $200+ price tag. So, in the interest of being a cheapskate I was able to re-use an old chassis I had around along with some tube sockets and other misc. parts in my collection. I was fortunate enough to be "gifted" a couple of suitable used power transformers as well as some spare tubes. The chassis originally had a suitable output transformer but it decided to smoke itself not long after I got the amp operational. So, all told after buying a new output transformer I managed to do it for less than 1/2 the kit cost. Now I just have to finish that speaker cabinet I have been working on for the last month or so.

It's been a good learning experience with little to loose due to the low cost.




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