Posts: 20
Threads: 8
Joined: Jun 2007
Hello,
This may sound like a stupid question......
I have a Admiral 6T06-4A1 and i am going to try to build a battery eliminator for this 'farm radio'. My question is:
in the back of the radio, i see to thin wires on the left side (?antenna wires); and a 4 wire/4 prong on the right side, is this where the battery hooks up? Or is something missing? How would you hook up a battery eliminator to these prongs?
Thanks-
diyahnih
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Hi
To be able to do this successfully, you need the schematic for your radio which should show how the 4-pin connector is wired; i.e. which pin of the plug is connected to what terminal on the battery.
Bill (batterymaker) could help you out a lot more here...if he doesn't jump in, you might send him a PM or e-mail.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 893
Threads: 9
Joined: Mar 2008
City: Vieques, PR USA
State, Province, Country: PR
Posts: 20
Threads: 8
Joined: Jun 2007
Hello,
Thanks Ron & exray for the info on this radio
--i need the help, i hope Bill 'batterymaker' will post to this topic.
Thanks-
diyahnih
Posts: 104
Threads: 11
Joined: Oct 2005
City: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 20
Threads: 8
Joined: Jun 2007
batterymaker,
I had to super glue the round brown piece that held the 4 metal prongs (it was broken in 3 pieces); but, i got that aha moment
from your diagram--and It may not have the same exact dimensions, but it'll do. Thank you so much for your help.
diyahnih
Posts: 909
Threads: 117
Joined: Jun 2007
Ive built a few homebrew battery eliminators before. Seems there are some plans (schemats) avail online ( via google search) to build one similar to what AES sells. Seems radio-shack used to sell the needed transformer for about $4. Dont know if they still have it avail?
If you look closely at your broken socket, you can trace 2 of the wires back to chassis ground. Those are your radios (A- & B-) solder them in together to chassis, your done on the (-) hookup on chassis. You will need separate + leads to your battery-eliminator if you build one. You will need 1.5 volts dc for your tubes filaments string (A +), and 90v dc for (B+), and the (A&B -) will be the same connection to your radios ( A & B - neg chassis gnd) from a homebrew ac/dc pwr supply, making it a 3-point hookup instead of 4 since both the (-) ties together to the chassis gnd. If I remember correctly,a few diodes ,proper ratios simple transformer, & a few resistors can yield you a nice homebrew "regulated" DC farm radio ac to dc power supply for much less than AES sells theirs for high $$. Look online for a schematic to build your own: ( google search): "vintage radio battery eliminator" for a schematic. Good luck , the parts are cheap to build these type items!
Posts: 893
Threads: 9
Joined: Mar 2008
City: Vieques, PR USA
State, Province, Country: PR
Texasrocker Wrote:=
If you look closely at your broken socket, you can trace 2 of the wires back to chassis ground. Those are your radios (A- & B-) solder them in together to chassis, your done on the (-) hookup on chassis.
wooopsie! B-minus will go to the chassis via R11, 390 ohms. Make sure this resistor is actually in place. In some designs it was part of the battery plug. Its the bias resistor for the whole radio.
Posts: 20
Threads: 8
Joined: Jun 2007
Texasrocker,
Thanks for the information, i appreciate the help with this radio.
diyahnih