[Howard R Stricklin]

I have a PHILCO RP-1 wireless record player and am in need of capacitors ..
being new to tube radios im at a loss as to what i need or how to cross reference them ...

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...014187.pdf
a link to the schematic for the RP-1

what are the modern equivalent to these and do they have to be exact ?

LINE CONDENSER/CAP .01 .01 mf 600 v.

COMP CONDENSER/CAP 006 mf 200 v .

ELECTROLYTIC CONDENSER/CAP 6 mf. -6 mf ., 150v

and one im not sure i need (oscillator grid CONDENSER/CAP 110 mmf )

I would like to purchase the modern versions of them .
Thank You

[Syl]

what are the modern equivalent to these and do they have to be exact ?

LINE CONDENSER/CAP .01 .01 mf 600 v.

COMP CONDENSER/CAP 006 mf 200 v .

ELECTROLYTIC CONDENSER/CAP 6 mf. -6 mf ., 150v

and one im not sure i need (oscillator grid CONDENSER/CAP 110 mmf )

I would like to purchase the modern versions of them .
Thank You

.01uF/600v (common)
.006uF/600v can be substituted with a .005 or .0047uF without ill results.
These can me Mylar, polypropylene or polystyrene.

There are pleny of good suppliers online. Find the cheapest. Yellow tubulars
are almost the norm for radio and phono restoration for their shape and availability.

110mmf (micro-microFarad) is actually a 110pF (a ceramic cap would do or silvermica).

Keep everything within 20% and you'll do fine. All at 600V to be on the safe side but
400V would do.

[edit] I forgot to add, the 6uF (6mf) can be replaced with a 10uF/250V. Actually, in this application a 200V would do fine.

Syl

[AI2V]

Howard-
The .01's are a very common value and readily available. This is not a critical value. 400v should be sufficient.

The .006 can easily be replaced with the common .05 or .047, or even a .01; it's not a critical value either; 350v or higher is best.

The 6mF is long obsolete and is usually replaced with a 10mF; it's not critical either but don't replace it with a smaller value; use 300v minimum here. The new caps are much smaller and higher voltage than the old ones. Be sure to disconnect at least one connection on the old cap if you are leaving it in place; don't connect the new cap across the old one.

The 110mmF is not super critical, nor is it very often bad; I would leave it alone.

[Howard R Stricklin]

The ELECTROLYTIC CONDENSER/CAP 6 mf. -6 mf ., 150v has a red and yellow wire coming from one end and a ground out the other ... the red and yellow are soldered to a resistor and the ground soldered to some type of terminal block ....
Does it need the ground to function ?

[Syl]

The ELECTROLYTIC CONDENSER/CAP 6 mf. -6 mf ., 150v has a red and yellow wire coming from one end and a ground out the other ... the red and yellow are soldered to a resistor and the ground soldered to some type of terminal block ....
Does it need the ground to function ?

This can has two capacitors. The black is the common ground for both capacitors
and the red/yellow are the positives. So you'll need 2* 10uF caps at 250V.

When replacing with two new capacitors, tie both negatives together and solder
where the black wire is. Then use any of the positive to the red and the other positive to the yellow
wire.

Syl

[Howard R Stricklin]

Thank you very much for the info guys ....very informative and helpful .

[Howard R Stricklin]

My god Radio Shack has some dim bulbs working there ..

I should have known that a 20 something female was going to give me a blank look when i ask her were the capacitors are ..

Her reply was "The what" .

[codefox1]

Google Digikey or just radios (canada) or for that matter capacitors. I get most of my stuff on ebay from sellers with good feedback. Newark or mouser, all electyronics are also good sources. Don't buy any old used junk from anyone, the stuff you will get will probably not be in any better shape than the ones you are replacing. Think about the other things you need/want, so that you can meet the minimum order and are not burdened by excessive shipping charges.

There's tons of information in this forum and elsewhere how to disguise new components in old cases, if you want to preserve the original look.

Above all, you must be patient. I spent an hour yesterday dismantling a 4 section can capacitor, stuffing it with new components, and getting it back together so it looks the same as it was to all but the most critical eye 60 years ago. This hobby will test your mechanical, intellectual, and resourceful energies more than you think.

So far as Radio Shack is concerned, beware there are people who are trying to make a living there who have never seen a typewriter, a vacuum tube, a punch card, adding machine, and would probably think a Weller soldering gun would be a prop from Star Trek, which Grandpa used to watch when she was a little kid. You could ask where the little yellow thingies with two silver legs that cost very little, and old men grunt and pick at, mutter under their breath and then leave without wanting to buy a new cell phone. Then, you will be directed to the corner in the back, where even the security guard does not watch you.

I'm sure others will chime in.

[Howard R Stricklin]

LINE CONDENSER/CAP .01 .01 mf 600 v. looks like there are 2 of these and im assuming they are mica (both are square and flat) ..
I will pass on replacing these . ..
I overlooked one cap it is called a screen bypass and its .1 mfd 200 volt it has a black stripe on one end is that pos or neg marking ?
radio shack does not have anything in .1mf 200 v so ill be ordering it ...what is a good substitute for it ?

[Syl]

LINE CONDENSER/CAP .01 .01 mf 600 v. looks like there are 2 of these and im assuming they are mica (both are square and flat) ..
I will pass on replacing these . ..

It may be a bad decision. Mica caps weren't available with such high values. I'll bet a dollar those are paper caps
inside a "domino" case à la mica. Been there. They usually go Bang. If I fing the picture I took a while
ago I'll post it here.

I overlooked one cap it is called a screen bypass and its .1 mfd 200 volt it has a black stripe on one end is that pos or neg marking ?
radio shack does not have anything in .1mf 200 v so ill be ordering it ...what is a good substitute for it ?

[/quote]

If you can't find a .1uF you can use two .05uF in parallel (selecting the correct voltage for those). Aesthetically not the best but if it saves you from ordering a single piece.

Syl

[gary rabbitt]

Hi Howard,
Hope you got my email reply.

The .1 @ 200 is generally replaced with the .1 uf @ 630volts. I wouldn't bother ordering it from Radio Shack. You might want to check one of the sites mentioned above, like Justradios.com. Make a list, and Dave will assemble a kit for you. I didn't need to replace the mica cap. Just restuffed the filter and the paper caps. One resistor was way high, I replaced that.

Your two line caps should be in the bakelite block. If you have a RP1-code (122).

I found I had the RP-1 code 123 which has only one .01uf line cap in the bakelite block. I haven't had a chance tonight to check the diagram for diagram for other changes between the two sets.
I did not see any marking telling me which series I had, but I will look later. Make sure you know which diagram to use.



I got mine to transmit fine, feeding audio in. I did use a transformer from the junk box to couple the audio to the leads that connect to the cartridge. But I will have to rebuild the cartridge, when I get a chance.

On the Radio Shack employees. I try to be gentle on them. Those young un's are someone's son or daughter in there, trying to make some money. They don't have a clue, that's obvious, but no reason to remind them of it.
I know it's frustrating to ask for a part, and you get the blank stare. Reverse the situation, and you are the young employee, and some older person comes in and asks you for a "bivet cluster, the one that is next to the boater shrew". You will have the "blank look" at first, but a good salesperson will say "I don't know what that is, but I will do my best to find out what it is, and get you one."

I have had a young salesman in Radio Shack say he's interested in tube equipment, and the "old school" electronics" . he actually knows what you are talking about. Or, they are eager to learn from you about.
Remember, these are young kids compared to us old farts, so when they give you that 'look' please try take it easy on them, and maybe a few words to help them understand what you are looking for. JMO


Good luck with your player.
Gary.

[Howard R Stricklin]

ok this is what i found from this site .
http://www.thetubecenter.com/Electrolyti...rlist.html
look good to go ?
10 uf/450V Axial Capacitor 2 of them
.1/630V Metalized Polyester Capacitors
.047/630V Metalized Polyester Capacitors
.01/630V Metalized Polyester Capacitors

and there was just one cap under the bakelite block rabbit glad you mentioned that or id have been pullinh hair out trying to figure it out .

[Syl]

ok this is what i found from this site .
http://www.thetubecenter.com/Electrolyti...rlist.html
look good to go ?
10 uf/450V Axial Capacitor 2 of them
.1/630V Metalized Polyester Capacitors
.047/630V Metalized Polyester Capacitors
.01/630V Metalized Polyester Capacitors

and there was just one cap under the bakelite block rabbit glad you mentioned that or id have been pullinh hair out trying to figure it out .

Dunno about shipping cost, but the prices are right. Good electrolytics too. I see some Rubycon and other brands I use.

There are many good suppliers out there but for a small order if you find this one to be fair on shipping go for it.
You could also stock a few common values if you expect to repair more radios. I keep .005, .01, .02, .05, and .1 in large quantities
and they cover most needs for old radios if you allow cheating on values sometimes... You'd be amazed at how forgiving those old radios
are on caps values (other than oscillator and similar circuits).

Syl

[FStephenMasek]

At first, I would make a list of capacitors I needed and place an order (with justradios), but then acquired more radios, so just ordered a bunch of capacitors and resistors in various sizes, using my experience on commonly need sizes and the pre-made kits they offer. I also bought some of the sommon sizes at the local radio group meeting. I bought plastic multi-drawer cabinets at Sears to hold all of those small parts.

Of course, I then still find that I need odd sizes from time to time and have to order them (e.g. I now need a 400MFD at 15V and four 200MFD @ 25V). Mouser is good for many items (and they will send you very nice paper catalogs which are nice to browse when looking for different ways to do something).

[Jim Berg]

Radio Shack around here was kind of handy to have, but closed due to the economy. The owner was a ham, and two of the ladies that worked there worked at the stove factory when I was working there. They would show you where the resistors, caps and other parts were. No blank stare. Sorry to see them close, as next nearest is another 25 miles away.