[radiorich]

Hello everyone,
Well I was wondering do those coils always need redone since the celluloid strip which acted as an insulator between the primary and secondary windings, which releases nitric acid and corrodes the wires.
Because I'm going to recap this set soon the set does play thou .
Sincerely Rich

[Arran]

Do the wires look green? I don't know if this was an issue with Philco 20s, I heard it was more of a problem with some of oscillator coils in the mid thirties superhets then the older TRF models.
Best Regards
Arran

[radiorich]

Hello Arran,
I have not pulled the chassis yet this is their 20 deluxe cathral set they made the main thing is to fix the grille fret work because it is really poor design and very weak made not like my Philco 610b tombstone.
Sincerely Rich

[Arran]

I think that you can actually buy a new front panel for one of these, the old one looks tricky to remove though. You should be able to repair the old if you have enough clamps, a hypodermic needle to inject some glue, and some plastic wrap to wrap the blocks used between the wood and the clamps. If there is some veneer missing you should be able to graft some new patches in place, there is a trick to it for the finish layer so it all blends in.
Best Regards
Arran

[radiorich]

Hello Arran ,
thanks for the info
sincerely Rich
P.S. when it gets time I'll post some photos of that Philco 20 deluxe cabinet

[gary rabbitt]

Hi Rich,
I didn't have any issues with coils when I did my set. I'd probably leave them alone unless I see something really bad.

The large filter can, I did house the new caps inside, but I DID NOT gut the entire can. I removed just enough to fit the new caps inside. The bottom ring of the can should slip off, also the bottom insulator/terminal strip should come out. Just remove aobut 1/2" of the tar, coil the wires or snip them short.

Solder the new caps to the bottom insulator, on the terminal strips. YOu will only need to put the insulator back in, then the metal bottom ring on and you're done. I have a couple of photos if you need to see them. I'll post as soon as I can.

I removed the tuning cap, and totally dismantled it, but it probably wasn't necessary. probably wouldn't do it again, just give it a good cleaning and lube.

Your grillework doesn't look bad at and and should be saved. Small donor pieces of veneer, glue and clamps is all that's needed. Just ight take some time, but it's worth it. You may have to brush stain or toner on pieces to make them match up, the grille is so thin though no none is looking to see the grain,

Will talk to you later,
Gary

[radiorich]

Hello Gary,
thanks for the info far as electricaly restoring this set I don't think I'll have any problems with the advice you have given me I
think it will be a straight forward job Since I know the set works thats a big plus in my book.
Sincerely Rich
P.S. there is a slight minor crack on one of the sides closer to the top curve I take a photo of it and email to you Gary.

[gary rabbitt]

Hey RIch,
Here's the photos of how I did the filter can. As you can see, I didn't have to remove any tar at all.
The bottom piece slips right off, it's not soldered or anything.

The paint color of the filter can is a little off. I think it was a darker color on the metal itself, very thin like an anodizing finish. As it was slightly rusted, I used Krylon drab camo color for now.
Good luck,
Gary.
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[radiorich]

Hello Gary,
Nice job well it looks simple enough I need to get started before Christmas on this set so it can be used in the Christmas production this year.

Sincerely Rich