37-61 bakelite block question
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City: Sneedville, TN
I have encountered a mystery while restoring my 37-61. On the schematics, and in the parts location diagram, the bakelite block that contains the two 0.15 mfd condensers is not in the position shown in the diagram, but rather is right near where the power cord enters the chassis. Where the diagram shows that one as being originally, there is a narrower bakelite block. I have been trying to figure out if this block actually has any condesners in it, or is it just being used as a tie point and terminal strip ? Has anyone else encountered this ? attached is a picture of that part of my chassis. The block with the two .015s is at the bottom, the one in question is near the top, by the on/off and tone switch.
[Image: http://40.media.tumblr.com/7722c56fade51...1_1280.jpg]
any help will be appreciated. By the way, I rebuilt the one with the two .015s already.
(This post was last modified: 10-26-2015, 03:09 PM by mikethedruid.
Edit Reason: added something
)
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City: Tehachapi. California
From your picture the block at the two filter caps if you look close you can see the small wires coming thru the eyelets from the caps inside so yes there is a cap inside. As for the layout I don't know.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!RESISTANCE IS FUTILE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
[Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...on_eek.gif] Chris
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Yes, Chris, Looking closely at it, it seems there are tiny wires coming through the end two eyelets, but not the middle one. I am wondering if the middle one is just being used as a tie point. I am still not sure which of the condensers in the circuit is hiding inside. Tracing the wires, it seems as if it may be part number 40, the .03 mfd condenser, but I am not sure, and, of course, when I take it apart, I probably won't be able to read anything on whatever is inside, if it is at all like the other block. If anyone has encountered this also, and knows, please let me know.
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Yes figuring which cap it is that's the most fun. Once you figure out which one it is then you will know the value and if there is only one inside. I think you are right with no small wire coming thru the center eyelet. I like to cook mine on top of an old light bulb outside of course. It only take a few minutes.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!RESISTANCE IS FUTILE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
[Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...on_eek.gif] Chris
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City: Sneedville, TN
I make a little tray out of aluminum foil, with little strips on top making a saddle for the block, and put it, right side up on the little saddle so the goo can leak out a bit... and bake it at 250F until I see the goo begin to drip. Then I pull the works out of the oven. I take the tray and all outside, and pull the stuffings out, and clean the rest out with a bamboo skewer stick. The pointy end is GREAT on the solder holes.
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Now that I have figured it out though, I MAY just put a jumper inside instead. I am considering changing to an actual tone control and switch, using a 100K pot and a .1 mfd condenser. I know, the purists will hate me, but I like the idea, and have seen it done in the past. I think the only reason Philco didn't do it was cost. It will certainly fit just fine.
Posts: 1,824
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Silly me... I just re-read the revision notes on this model... from run 5 it says these changes were made, and condenser 40 is indeed in that block.
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