[Robbie Roberts]

Well, the last cap has been recapped, all the resistors(except 1) have been replaced, and the wiring is now up to snuff... I have the whole thing together again- sub-chassis is happily reassembled and back in place, everything!

I even learned how to repair a tuning capacitor rack: I found the foreward most cap set (fixed plates) had a broken phenolic mounting tab(actually both) so I had to remove it and make new ones. Worked out well- especially once I discovered the mounting tabs were soldered on! And, of course, I figured out how to set the air gap... Lots of fun, but looks right.

Now to start her up. Since I don't have a variac(that I'm aware of, but just might- in storage) I am going to try the lightbulb in series concept to reduce initial voltage. I do need to know(and this may sound stupid) when I test voltages at the tube sockets, are the tubes in place, and I check from below, or just pull a tube, check the pin sockets for voltage, and replace the tube? And if it is pull the tube, is it all right to pull a tube with power appiled? I know my Z-word TOs can blow their tubes if you remove with power applied...

Suggestions welcome!
Thanks!

Robbie

PS- Does anyone know the correct sequence for the band indicator pivot? Is it gear-shield & plate-felt washer-dial hub, or gear-felt washer-shield and plate-dial hub? I can't seem to recall... R.