02-19-2016, 02:33 AM
Hi A and welcome to Phorum!!
Short of the top cabinet looks very good! Don't know what sort of expectations you have for this project but I'd give the cabinet "The Treatment" that is some very fine steel wool and non pumice GOJO. You might be very happy with the results. And then repair the top / refinish. That is the simplest and if it doesn't meet your expectations you haven't done anything that is hard to change.
A thought on the chassis. Some would really tear in to it with soldering gun blazing and wire wheels spinning stripping it down to it's bare bones. Replacing everything short of the parts that are made of unatainunm. A lot of times they end up creating more problems than fixing. As you may have guessed I would consider a more conservative approach. At this point (being pretty dusty and dirty) it's a bit hard to tell how much rust/corruption there is. If it's in a noncritical area like near the power supply from an electrical standpoint it may not matter so much other than the appearance. If there is some up in the tuned circuits then it may need to be addressed. Again it comes back to the expectations.
After the chemical stripping has been done how do you protect the new bare metal? Oils, clear paint,or pigmented paint??
After having a look at the diagram electrically it's a good design having a RF amplifier and in the audio amp that uses triode connected push/pull 42 tube w/a 42 driver tube. If memory serves me well that's was Philco's 10 watt hi fidelity audio output stage. It was used in Philco's higher end sets around that time. So when it's all done you'll have a set that sensitive and have a very good sound oh and let's not forget the shadow meter.
A couple of things to look out for... Open coils like the shadow meter, driver transformer primary, and primaries on the antenna oscillator coils.
Anyway I'm getting a bit long winded myself! Glad to have you aboard. There's lots of good help here by folk's that are much smarter than me. Enjoy the resto!!
Terry
Short of the top cabinet looks very good! Don't know what sort of expectations you have for this project but I'd give the cabinet "The Treatment" that is some very fine steel wool and non pumice GOJO. You might be very happy with the results. And then repair the top / refinish. That is the simplest and if it doesn't meet your expectations you haven't done anything that is hard to change.
A thought on the chassis. Some would really tear in to it with soldering gun blazing and wire wheels spinning stripping it down to it's bare bones. Replacing everything short of the parts that are made of unatainunm. A lot of times they end up creating more problems than fixing. As you may have guessed I would consider a more conservative approach. At this point (being pretty dusty and dirty) it's a bit hard to tell how much rust/corruption there is. If it's in a noncritical area like near the power supply from an electrical standpoint it may not matter so much other than the appearance. If there is some up in the tuned circuits then it may need to be addressed. Again it comes back to the expectations.
After the chemical stripping has been done how do you protect the new bare metal? Oils, clear paint,or pigmented paint??
After having a look at the diagram electrically it's a good design having a RF amplifier and in the audio amp that uses triode connected push/pull 42 tube w/a 42 driver tube. If memory serves me well that's was Philco's 10 watt hi fidelity audio output stage. It was used in Philco's higher end sets around that time. So when it's all done you'll have a set that sensitive and have a very good sound oh and let's not forget the shadow meter.
A couple of things to look out for... Open coils like the shadow meter, driver transformer primary, and primaries on the antenna oscillator coils.
Anyway I'm getting a bit long winded myself! Glad to have you aboard. There's lots of good help here by folk's that are much smarter than me. Enjoy the resto!!
Terry
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