[davemc]

My next step is usually to check all of the parts I can and make a list of parts needed or repairs needed.

• The cabinet was in good condition with only occasional scratches and finish loss. The knobs were original. The back cover was present and in good condition, but the retaining screws did not appear to be original. One knob spring was missing.
  
• The chassis rubber corner bumpers were in poor condition, and one was missing. Fortunately these are available from Renovated Radios (PHS-COR).
  
• Several parts that secure the two large vertical dials to the cabinet were missing. A key part of these four assemblies is a flanged bushing, shoulder bushing, or shoulder spacer (not sure what they are called). Two were missing. Fortunately I found two in my junk box which were slightly too long and could be cut down. These parts are often used in conjunction with rubber grommets to support tuning capacitors in radios. The other rubber parts used were two GPH-46-480 (a grommet with an offset groove) and 7/32” thick washers cut from a GPH-Sleeve from Renovated Radios. Two #8 x 1” round head black Philips head screws were also missing. I have not found a supplier for this screw, so I may have to use slotted zinc hardware.
  
• The line cord had been removed. I assume that the original was likely rubber or vinyl vs. cloth covered.
  
• One of the two dial pointer drive cords was off its pulley. The dial cord stringing in this radio is quite complex, and especially for the band spread dial.
  
• The speaker field, cone, and output transformer were OK.
  
• The power transformer was defective. It showed obvious signs of leaking wax. One of the two primary windings was open and one was shorted. After removal of the transformer for inspection, one primary winding was burned to a crisp. This may have been caused by shorted turns, or perhaps the radio had been connected to 230 volts when setup for 115 volts. When removed for inspection, it appeared that the transformer leads had been unsoldered and then reattached. So someone had been there before!
  
• The three IF transformers were OK.
  
• All of the RF coils and transformers were OK. I was unable to test two oscillator coils that were buried in the band switch – I could not safely access their connection points.
  
• Eight resistors were out of tolerance – all were carbon composition types – all but one was ½ watt. Some original resistors that had to be replaced were rated at 20% tolerance. New 20% tolerance resistors are no longer made, and I will be forced to use 10% or 5% parts. I try to use vintage parts (vs. new) when available and in tolerance.
  
• Five tubes were bad – either showing shorts or were weak. The original 80 tube was a tubular type which was good, but I prefer the ST or shouldered type so it will  be replaced. One of the bad tubes was a 6V6 output tube (shorted) – its mate was OK but slightly weak. I picked two replacement 6V6’s from my parts stocks which had higher quality measurements and were closely matched. If the restoration goes well I may try to find two matched 6V6G tubes. The parts list calls for 6V6E GT/G so either G or GT types are acceptable.
  

The defective power transformer was obviously a showstopper if it could not be replaced. This had to be addressed before spending any time or money on restoration. The original transformer was quite unique, and there was not much chance of finding an exact replacement. It had two primary windings each rated at 115 volts. These winding could be arranged in either series (230 volts) or parallel (115 volts) by a switch on the rear chassis. Each winding also had three taps for HI, MED, and LOW voltages selected by another switch. My strategy (suggested by Ron Ramirez) was to find a suitable replacement for 115 volts only, which would be acceptable in the USA. I did not know the specifications of the original transformer. But I could calculate the total 6.3 volt filament current required based on the tubes and pilot lamps used (3.1 amps total). The rectifier tube was a type 80, so the rectifier filament winding rating was 5 volts at 2 amps. The maximum voltage and current for a type 80 rectifier is 350 volts max per plate and 125ma output current. So that should be the maximum high voltage winding rating required.

I first looked at the available new transformers at Radio Daze, who sells Hammond Mfg Transformers. I also looked at transformers available at Play Things Of Past. Here is what I found:

• Play Things Of Past, Philco 32-8115, $18.50, used. Horizontal mounting, from a Philco model 41-295, 11 tubes, may fit chassis with minimum modifications needed. Filament current 41-295 3.8 amps, B+ 245v. The Philco 41-295 and 46-888 are similar radios except for the audio output tubes. The 41-295 uses two 42’s (6F6) while the 46-888 uses two 6V6’s.
  
• Radio Daze Hammond 273CZ $109.41, Horizontal mounting, will fit chassis hole, no adapter needed, 5V@3A, 6.3v@5A, 650vct@173MA  Much larger than needed and expensive, but it will fit the chassis hole.
  
• Play Things Of Past, Philco 32-7080 NEW $35, Vertical mounting, would need an adapter plate, 5v@2A, 6.3v@5A, 720vct@123MA – a close match
  
• Radio Daze Hammond 273X $82.64, Vertical mounting, would need an adapter plate would, 5V@2A, 6.3v@4A, 700vct@126ma – a close match
  

I ordered the Philco 32-8115 transformer from Play Things Of Past. When it arrived, I found that it fit the chassis exactly and all mounting holes even lined up! It even looked like the original transformer, and lead exit points were compatible with the chassis. So with all showstoppers resolved, I could proceed with the restoration. At this point I had to order some parts that I do not normally stock.