06-13-2016, 02:15 PM
(06-13-2016, 12:29 PM)Radioroslyn Wrote: Just as an aside try measuring the resistance 35Z5 out of it's socket, pins 2,3,and 7 should show a low resistance to each other. The pilot lamp get it's power from a tap in the 35Z5 heater (pin3) if there is no resistance from pin 3 to 2 or 7 the lamp won't light but the power supply will make HV. Don't know if an open tap will show on the tube tester. This may solve your pilot lamp issue.
Gl
Terry
Thanks. I will do that when I get home today.
While I'm at it. Let me put up a couple of photos to see if things look right. I think someone did some work on this before it came to me....or the factory wiring is different from what I understand the schematics to mean...anyway.
This is the 35Z5:
[Image: http://i.imgur.com/9vEJIRq.jpg]
Now first excuse the sloppy solder job. That will be cleaned up.
What seems odd is that the power and bulb wire are supposed to attach to pin 2 according to the schematic, but is jumpered over to pin 4 with that wire and there's that other wire attached to pin 2 that goes off to something I can't recall. I'll have to check that when I get home, but I can't see that anything else is supposed to attach to that pin according to the schematic. Everything else looks logical compared to the schematic. Is this normal?
And when it comes to the switch this is how I received it:
[Image: http://i.imgur.com/w8rmDFI.jpg]
What I "think" is odd is how the switch is "grounded"/jumpered/wired to pin 8 of the 12SQ7 tube. If that is supposed to be the ground wire for that switch shouldn't it be attached to pin 1? That obviously looks like the ground since that wire running off of it is attached directly to the chassis.