[davemc]

I assume that all paper and electrolytic capacitors are leaky and thus should be replaced. I always "restuff" the original components if possible. I normally stock only 630 volt axial film capacitors, and use these for restuffing the original paper tubular capacitors. Three capacitors in this radio were rated at 0.003mfd at 1500 volts. I have been unable to find new components rated at 1500 volts or more that would fit inside the original cases. Thus I had to use either disc ceramic capacitors or parts from my vintage Arco “color rated” capacitor kit which were likely dipped film capacitors rated at 1600 volts, and forgo restuffing. I do not replace mica capacitors, but may test them in place if possible (usually this requires disconnecting one end of the capacitor).  In one case, a new 0.22mfd/630 volt axial film capacitor was too large to fit inside the original case  of C103 (0.2mfd/200 volts). So I used a 0.15mfd part instead – likely close enough given the application.

When I replace a component, I always remove the original part completely from a terminal.  Other good components connected at the terminal are protected from heat using old medical clamps (hemostats).  Excess solder is then removed using a solder sucker in order to expose terminal holes for reattachment of the rebuilt or replaced component.   My re-stuffing process for wax/paper capacitors is as follows:

• The original capacitor is removed from the radio, and the required lead length and any use of insulating sleeving noted.
  
• The low melting point wax from each end of the original capacitor is melted and removed using an old 25 watt soldering iron.
  
• The original wire leads are removed, as well as any remaining wax.
  
• While the internal wax is still molten, a small screwdriver is used to push out the original paper-foil roll.  In some cases, the contents came out when the leads were pulled out.
  
• The original cases are then cleaned out, and any wax and dirt on the outside removed by gently heating the body with a heat gun and wiping with a paper towel while still molten.  
  
• If the required lead length is longer than that of the replacement capacitor, a piece of bus wire is attached before restuffing. The splice is made close to the capacitor body so that the splice is hidden inside the cardboard tube after re-sealing.
  
• The replacement capacitor is wrapped in a narrow strip of paper towel in order to keep the new capacitor centered and to keep it from falling out.
  
• The finished capacitor is then sealed with melted rosin (salvaged from early RCA Superhet catacombs, and donated by or purchased from members on Antique Radio Forums).  
  
• I do NOT recoat the outside of the rebuilt capacitors with wax (I'm not sure what was originally used - probably beeswax). 
  

While cleaning out some of the paper capacitors prior to restuffing, I was surprised to find a CD Dwarf Tiger capacitor inside an original Philco capacitor shell! I suppose Philco was unable to build enough original Philco parts due to shortages following the end of WWII, but wanted only Philco branded parts used in their radios.
[Image: http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii80/...lcoCap.jpg]
Here are some restuffed Philco wax/papercapacitors using the method above:
[Image: http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii80/...erCaps.jpg]

Filter Capacitors
The original filter capacitors were removed from the chassis for restuffing.  C102 is a twist lock type capacitor rated at 40mfd with a cardboard cover. The parts list did not list the working voltage, and there was no marking on the cardboard capacitor case. The capacitor can inside was stamped as 40mfd/450 volts. The inner case was restuffed using a 47mfd 450 volt radial capacitor. C105/C105A/C205 is a twist lock type capacitor rated at 50mfd, 5mfd, and 5mfd all at 300 volts. It was restuffed using a 47mfd and two 4.7mfd radial capacitors at 450 volts. 

My procedure for restuffing twist lock type can capacitors is as follows (there are many discussions and examples with photos using slightly different techniques on the various Antique Radio forums as well as YouTube. I generally use radial type electrolytics for restuffing, since they are usually much smaller than axial types. This is especially critical in cases where there are multiple capacitors inside the can.

• Remove the cardboard cover (C102).  In this case, I had to use a heat gun to soften the cement or tar holding it to the can. Sometimes the cover will pull off easily without heating. It is important not to pull using the capacitor's terminals, but rather the ground tabs, while the heated cover is held using an old wash towel or rag.
  
• Clean the outside of the metal can using lacquer thinner.  
  
• Uncrimp the bottom of the metal can using a small screwdriver and small diagonal cutters.  Try to minimize damage to the outside of the can, since it will be visible unless the capacitor has a cover.
  
• Remove the mounting ring and the terminal board, cutting the aluminum leads to the capacitor body to free up the terminal assembly. I had to peel back a small area of the can in order to be able to insert a small screwdriver under the terminal board and start the removal process. One must be VERY careful and not break the terminal board, and to keep the terminals attached to both fiber boards (do not allow the terminals to pull free of either board). There was a layer of rubber sealing material between the two terminal boards, which was retained.
  
• Clean the terminal board assembly using lacquer thinner and old toothbrushes. 
  
• Remove the can contents using a heat gun to release the tar, followed by a thorough cleaning.  I first remove as much tar and other crud using mechanical means.  
  
• Connect the replacement capacitor leads to the original terminals by drilling small holes through the terminal board close to the terminals, passing a lead through the holes, and soldering them to the terminals on the inner side of the lug. I use small numbered drill bits and a Dremel Moto Tool - the drill bit used is only slightly larger than the component leads to be used. 
  
• The common ground lead of is passed through a small hole drilled near one of the three capacitor ground/mounting tabs.  This lead is not soldered to the ground lug until after the capacitor is secured in the chassis mounting wafer (otherwise the solder would prevent the lug easily passing through the hole in the mounting wafer or could damage the wafer - ASK ME HOW I KNOW THAT).
  
• Reinstall the terminal board and mounting ring and restore the crimp around the base (I use a plastic faced hammer).
  
• Reinstall the cardboard cover (it was not re-glued - just held on by friction).  The cover hides any signs of the bottom crimp being disturbed.
  

Restuffed Filter caps Before Reinstalling in their cases:
[Image: http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii80/...tuffed.jpg]
C102
[Image: http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii80/...tuffed.jpg]
C102 With Cardboard Cover Installed
[Image: http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii80/...hCover.jpg]
C105 (note the damage to the base from uncrimping and then recrimping)
[Image: http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii80/...Filter.jpg]