07-04-2016, 09:23 PM
(07-04-2016, 08:53 PM)quartermilecamel Wrote: correct, I replaced the two 8 uf caps that had 16 uf caps(aerovox) installed in place by previous owner. I used the same wires, and substituted 10 uf caps. Maybe I should test polarity to be sure next time I fire it up. I did see the original 8 and 10 uf cap can in an under chassis picture on here somewhere. Guessing that the stray 8 uf cap still in place(dry electrolytic) is to replace the missing 10 original uf cap? I havnt looked to see where its electrically connected in the schematic yet.>Maybe I should test polarity to be sure next time I fire it up
The only problem now with the set is when I power it on, I hear faint mild hissing garbled sound for a bit. Havnt yet replaced any of the bakelite caps yet either so that could be very the garbly hiss sound on fire up.
Right now Im trying to figure out how to tie the proper length dial cord. Not sure how much the spring and metal slider bracket will compensate for slack. I didnt have proper size but I used 4 strands of smaller cord quadrupled up. Pretty close to original
If either one of the two 8uf caps where in backwards they'd explode so your probably ok there. If the 10uf (bias filter) was in backwards it would probably short out the -bias voltage going to the 6A3 grids. The way the two cans are set up one has just one terminal which is the positive side of one of the 8uf caps. The other one has two terminals one is the other positive side of the second 8uf and the other terminal is negative side of the 10uf cap. the positive side is connected to the shell with the negative of the 8uf. The reason I mentioned it is that it's not very common the have the negative connection with it's own post on the bottom of a cap. Just about all the time there all positives.
Terry