08-03-2009, 07:12 AM
The only picture I can find of a 62 is at northernelectric.ca/radios/philco_62/philco_62.htm. From the picture I'd guess that the filter cap is the big square box next to the power transformer. I've done three Philco 20 filter caps, the first two I drilled out with a 1/2" bit in a drill press and the third I tried melting out in the oven. If you decide to melt yours out, I'd recommend adding legs to the cap made from threaded rod a little longer than the cap is tall so the mess has room to fall out. Drilling is labor intensive and you run the risk of tweaking the case or bulging it from the inside out. I used a twist drill bit as a spade bit could be dangerous.
The schematic shows #5, #6, and #10 are caps and resistors, .1uf and 250 ohms. Some bakelite blocks have both parts in the same case. Make note of which lead is which, then unsolder the wires that come out of the case to the lugs on top. That'll make it easier to get the guts out. I dug mine out with a X-acto blade, then cleaned out the remaining wax with carb cleaner or gasoline. I used imitation Orange Drop 600volt caps from AES, they fit in the blocks but the leads need to be bent to fit. There's some talk that cracking the case where the leads exit the cap can cause moisture to enter over time, so use a pair of needle nose pliers and be careful. The grid caps on the 24 tubes are another place to be careful, particularly if the clips are stuck. The metal cap on the tube is just glued on, so be very gentle removing the clips from the caps. Don't ask me how I found that out. I used self-stick numbers on everything under the chassis as it makes it easier to follow the schematic, particularly on the filter and transformer lugs. Since replacing the filter cap isn't your first priority, make sure it doesn't get warm in operation.
Dave
The schematic shows #5, #6, and #10 are caps and resistors, .1uf and 250 ohms. Some bakelite blocks have both parts in the same case. Make note of which lead is which, then unsolder the wires that come out of the case to the lugs on top. That'll make it easier to get the guts out. I dug mine out with a X-acto blade, then cleaned out the remaining wax with carb cleaner or gasoline. I used imitation Orange Drop 600volt caps from AES, they fit in the blocks but the leads need to be bent to fit. There's some talk that cracking the case where the leads exit the cap can cause moisture to enter over time, so use a pair of needle nose pliers and be careful. The grid caps on the 24 tubes are another place to be careful, particularly if the clips are stuck. The metal cap on the tube is just glued on, so be very gentle removing the clips from the caps. Don't ask me how I found that out. I used self-stick numbers on everything under the chassis as it makes it easier to follow the schematic, particularly on the filter and transformer lugs. Since replacing the filter cap isn't your first priority, make sure it doesn't get warm in operation.
Dave
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