12-17-2016, 12:16 AM
Here is the can, with new wires sticking out from both sides.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_062.jpg]
The small green wire is stripped and soldered to the negative lead of a new 22 uF, 450 volt Nichicon electrolytic. The positive lead of the new electrolytic is carefully wrapped around the stripped end of the 12 gauge wire, and soldered to it.
Notice that I use heat shrink tubing over the soldered connections. The heat shrink on the positive wire will help to keep the large wire from being able to be pulled into the rubber plug and possibly causing the new capacitor to short out.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_063.jpg]
Now, the new capacitor is in place inside the old can.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_064.jpg]
On the outside, I cut off the center wire at just the right length (about 1/2 inch), and strip about 1/4" of insulation from this large wire.
Next, I crimp the solder connector to the new copper wire, and solder it to the wire as well.
I cut off enough of the green (negative) wire to be able to connect it to a good ground point inside the RF unit. Yes, I could fasten it to the outside of the can, using the clamp to make a decent mechanical bond, but I would rather solder the wire to a ground point inside the RF unit. It won't be seen when the radio is finished, anyway.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_065.jpg]
Finally, I glue the top back onto the body:
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_066.jpg]
Once the glue dries, this can will be reinstalled in the RF unit. After that, I can begin to put the RF unit back together. Now is a good time to work on the electrolytic while the antenna and RF sections are out of the way and the underside of the electrolytic is easy to get to.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_062.jpg]
The small green wire is stripped and soldered to the negative lead of a new 22 uF, 450 volt Nichicon electrolytic. The positive lead of the new electrolytic is carefully wrapped around the stripped end of the 12 gauge wire, and soldered to it.
Notice that I use heat shrink tubing over the soldered connections. The heat shrink on the positive wire will help to keep the large wire from being able to be pulled into the rubber plug and possibly causing the new capacitor to short out.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_063.jpg]
Now, the new capacitor is in place inside the old can.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_064.jpg]
On the outside, I cut off the center wire at just the right length (about 1/2 inch), and strip about 1/4" of insulation from this large wire.
Next, I crimp the solder connector to the new copper wire, and solder it to the wire as well.
I cut off enough of the green (negative) wire to be able to connect it to a good ground point inside the RF unit. Yes, I could fasten it to the outside of the can, using the clamp to make a decent mechanical bond, but I would rather solder the wire to a ground point inside the RF unit. It won't be seen when the radio is finished, anyway.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_065.jpg]
Finally, I glue the top back onto the body:
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_066.jpg]
Once the glue dries, this can will be reinstalled in the RF unit. After that, I can begin to put the RF unit back together. Now is a good time to work on the electrolytic while the antenna and RF sections are out of the way and the underside of the electrolytic is easy to get to.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN