05-06-2017, 09:15 PM
Wll post some photos tomorrow.
I did the nastiest caps in the Power/Amp chassis.
First I restuffed the two backelite blocks. As in the 37-116, they had eyelets flooded with solder - no easy restuffing. I mean, I did not spend an hour but the process was messy. In the second cap what I did, I unsoldered and unwrapped the lead wires and then after one or two suctions from the eyelets I heated them 'till the tar bubbled and filled the eyelet, then I quickly pulled the wire ip while wiggling it just a little, and so it centered with the tar around and the rest of the solder displaced.
Still too much trouble.
I do realize Philco did not have restuffing in mind but still can't see why they started flooding the eyelets.
Then came what I thought would be the worst: the tubular metall shell 1uF cap for the tweeters.
I used cutters to start unrolling the edge, proceeding with needle nose pliers, then pulled the metal cover and used a corkscrew to extract the tarred roll. It came out very easy with no heat.
After that I put a polyester audio cap I happened to have around, which also fitted the size ideally, inside, potted the top, put the cover back and replaced it in the chassis. Whew.
Here I put a paper circular piece to keep the molten plastic from hurting the cap.
Now just the conventional paper tubulars and can lytics remain; tomorrow I'll tackle those.
I did the nastiest caps in the Power/Amp chassis.
First I restuffed the two backelite blocks. As in the 37-116, they had eyelets flooded with solder - no easy restuffing. I mean, I did not spend an hour but the process was messy. In the second cap what I did, I unsoldered and unwrapped the lead wires and then after one or two suctions from the eyelets I heated them 'till the tar bubbled and filled the eyelet, then I quickly pulled the wire ip while wiggling it just a little, and so it centered with the tar around and the rest of the solder displaced.
Still too much trouble.
I do realize Philco did not have restuffing in mind but still can't see why they started flooding the eyelets.
Then came what I thought would be the worst: the tubular metall shell 1uF cap for the tweeters.
I used cutters to start unrolling the edge, proceeding with needle nose pliers, then pulled the metal cover and used a corkscrew to extract the tarred roll. It came out very easy with no heat.
After that I put a polyester audio cap I happened to have around, which also fitted the size ideally, inside, potted the top, put the cover back and replaced it in the chassis. Whew.
Here I put a paper circular piece to keep the molten plastic from hurting the cap.
Now just the conventional paper tubulars and can lytics remain; tomorrow I'll tackle those.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.