[jcassity]

I wonder about this.......

buy a copper steel wool pad.,, the kind you buy would be way too much material for one tube., well maybe not because it depends on how you look at it.

cut off the amount you want then shape it into a cylinder.  slip it over your hot tube,,, may actually work,, who knows.

perhaps the copper were kept in its big single pad form and you wiggled out openings into the pad so that the one single pad could slip over two or three consecutive side by side tubes????

Then again,, if we had a low dc voltage power supply with utility ac as  the input then a old computer CPU fan would also work even better.  this way we dont use the natural convection principles as the means to fight heat out of the tube, we blow it away.

I think you guys understand by now that i enjoy taking something that lasted so long and then i dig into it and attempt to make it even more bullet proof.  From a purist standpoint this isn't going to work, but i cant let a minor but important opportunity to do a quick improvment slip by me.

same with my fox body cougars and Tbirds,, to change a heater core out shop manual step one says to "remove dash".
-Nope,, my step 1 is remove the access cover from the engine bay fire wall !,, now slips out in 10 minutes rather and the shop manual denoted 13 man hours.

or.. change the fuel pump- shop manual says step 1 is to drain gas and drop tank
-Nope, my step one is open trunk and roll back carpet. Open the access hatch in the trunk and remove pump there.

or.. improve one mistakes like all my exterior lighting goes through my headlamp switch and thats why it has the big heat sink,, typical results are with engine at idle and alterantor at 13.6vdc, the headlamps only get 11.9 to 12v when on.
-Nope, add slave relays to the headlamp switch and what do you know,,, now you have 13.3vdc at your headlamps. when you only have 13.5volts and you missing 2 of them due to voltage drop and OEM design errors, its hard not taking the time to improve on them.