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Philco 38-690 electronics restoration.
#48

Any restoration that does not contradict safety and keeps the schematic original is proper.

As for the degree of authenticity, this is different for everyone: what's acceptable for some, is not for me, and what's acceptable to me is well below the par for, say, Russ "Phlogiston" or Steve Davis who do museum grade jobs.

I personally hate to see yellow caps under the chassis and so will restuff all those that are possible to do it with but I will not over-mold resistors I replace or find Philco electrolytic cans if they have been replaced by other cans that still look OK to me.

There is no such thing as universal "proper" acceptability criteria. Find the one that personally satisfy you and stick to it.


PS> 4 can electrolytics done, 3 left to re-stuff. Waiting on more of those 22uF 450V Panasonic caps - the highest ripple rated I found so far - 560mA per capacitor (I serialize them to sub 8uF or 10uF caps). And the tube rectifier uses two in parallel so it will take 1,120mA of ripple. And I found the place, Onlinecomponents.com, who sells them at much lower price than Mouser. They have a minimum order of $50 so had to buy 70pcs. That will last me some. Icon_smile
I also ordered some film Solen 8uF 630V caps in case I decided to go with them for the first caps.

PPS. After cooking dinner (rib lamb chops and asparagus, nothing fancy) I went to the underworld in hopes that I be able to gut another cap, and ended up fully restuffing it.
Two to go.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.


Messages In This Thread
Philco 38-690 electronics restoration. - by morzh - 04-12-2017, 08:19 PM
RE: Philco 38-690 electronics restoration. - by morzh - 05-24-2017, 11:38 AM



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