[jcassity]

redoing but shortening up my pupose of post.

radio was free
owner said its been working for years
owner says radio recently started making a poping noise,, so he had not turned it on since last fall.

I take it home and power up.
it does pop some , thinking its a silver mica issue i turn it off after hearing a very agressive sounding "POP".
flip over the set and find a cap that is litterally on the edge of blowing,, the foil is showing.

i proceed to inventory caps and one at a time replace all paper caps.
I also use disc type caps at a temporary till my new order arrives of caps & tubes and spares for this set.
I power up after each cap is installed and all works fine.
i do not have a .25uf cap so that one remains until my order arrives.
I conclude cap replacement and take a phone call with the radio playing.

while on the phone call the radio goes silent yet all the tubes remain lighted except for the 6sk7's which i cant see light nor feel much warmth.

I have no dc output on the 25z6,, i have 120vac output where the dc is supposed to be.
~~ this rectifier tube must be shorted internally.

****my question was when you look into the glass of a tube you can see all the socket pin transitions to the internals of the tube, further these transitions are in a straight line.
is there a way to count the straight lineup inside the glass so you can identify pin 1 ect.? perhaps it is never the same because the tube type dictates how the pins *in the glass* are arranged.

I expect to simply drop in a new 25z6 and the set work,,

In my picture there is a bare tinned copper bar running across the bottom of the chassis.
from what i have read and what i can tell, this bar is supposed to have my DC power, seems kinda hazardous to me but oh well.