02-06-2006, 11:36 PM
The adjustments are 1/4" hex nuts in the older Philco IF cans and the compensator padders and trimmers - not screws.
Take a run-of-the-mill 6-32, 1/4" hex nut thread a long-ish screw into the nut before heating to allow pushing into the tubing end and removing after cooling off.
You are essentially making a plastic nut-driver. The original was harder phenolic, but the plastic will do fine.
Here's what an original "Philco Alignment Tool" (left) looks like:
[Image: http://www.philcorepairbench.com/images/...ools02.jpg]
[Image: http://www.philcorepairbench.com/images/...ools01.jpg]
Take a run-of-the-mill 6-32, 1/4" hex nut thread a long-ish screw into the nut before heating to allow pushing into the tubing end and removing after cooling off.
You are essentially making a plastic nut-driver. The original was harder phenolic, but the plastic will do fine.
Here's what an original "Philco Alignment Tool" (left) looks like:
[Image: http://www.philcorepairbench.com/images/...ools02.jpg]
[Image: http://www.philcorepairbench.com/images/...ools01.jpg]
Chuck Schwark,
The Philco Repair Bench
[Image: http://www.philcorepairbench.com/images/philog3tiny.gif]
http://www.philcorepairbench.com