01-22-2019, 08:01 PM
If there are any connections to the chassis via a riveted or even bolted connection, do this: Loosen & refasten nut/bolt connections. For riveted connections use an aggressive liquid flux sparingly on the riveted joint chassis to tab and a 125 watt or better soldering iron with a large copper bolt. Solder that riveted connection. If cleaned, fluxed properly and the iron suggested used solder flow smoothly around the multiple joints.
Be sure serrated washers are used to secure the pots.
Unless there is a wiring error, a short from wire clippings or a solder splash that should get the voltage down.
BTW the manual does not have voltage test points. Obviously the assembly manual does, strange...
https://stevenjohnson.com/manuals/mfiles/eico221.pdf
Oh, use a 10k to 20k ohms/volt analog meter for the measurements unless EICO species a different meter. A DVM does not load the circuit so readings will be deceptively high.
For the caps, take your pick here: http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/view...8&t=242692
YMMV
Chas
Be sure serrated washers are used to secure the pots.
Unless there is a wiring error, a short from wire clippings or a solder splash that should get the voltage down.
BTW the manual does not have voltage test points. Obviously the assembly manual does, strange...
https://stevenjohnson.com/manuals/mfiles/eico221.pdf
Oh, use a 10k to 20k ohms/volt analog meter for the measurements unless EICO species a different meter. A DVM does not load the circuit so readings will be deceptively high.
For the caps, take your pick here: http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/view...8&t=242692
YMMV
Chas
Pliny the younger
“nihil novum nihil varium nihil quod non semel spectasse sufficiat”