02-14-2019, 11:05 AM
humm, you almost lost me but i scrolled through (back in time) to the resistor you just spoke to.
R127 and R100 are the same component depending on which print you look at (sams or philco).~see post #226
E^/r = about 1.5watts from the mountains here in wv if your 151v drop is applied.
what we know is ........
the worse voltage drop you saw was 151vdc across the resistor tied to pin 8 of the 5y3.
This resistor is not stable with respect to the voltage drops you are reporting
Your new tubes installed made no difference
what i personally know is that this resistor is electrically located in the same spot that gave me worries,,, and i was never able to hold my finger on the proper wattage sized resistor for more than 3 actual seconds. the radio continued to work with the OEM recommended resistor that i installed but prior repair man work showed that keeping this resistor under the chassis was radiating heat on various near by parts and actually inducing a melting look to the bottom of my 5y3 tube socket. my only solution was to relocate it out from under the chassis and integrate some sort of over kill wattage value of a calibrated resistance with a fabri-cobbled heat sync. to be fair, the main reasons i had troubles i think was that my push/pulls were runnin' a tad high in voltage,, so i calibrated this resistor to get the push voltage down, which forced my hand to a higher wattage resistor.
what we dont know is the actual resistance of R100/127 when its cool - no load
What we dont know is the actuall resistance of the R100/127 when it is hot - no load
i am guilty of over complicated things just because i turn over as many stones as i can to make this stuff future proof,, i dont like wasting time either.
what i suggest............
de-solder the side of R100/127 connected to the 5y3 - 8.
place your***ANALOG*** ammeter in series there.
Power up and observe the needle deflection and possibly get actual visual amp draw changes based on:
-time
-band switch selection
-wiggle testing of various pieces parts while the BS is in either FM or AM or Sw
R127 and R100 are the same component depending on which print you look at (sams or philco).~see post #226
E^/r = about 1.5watts from the mountains here in wv if your 151v drop is applied.
what we know is ........
the worse voltage drop you saw was 151vdc across the resistor tied to pin 8 of the 5y3.
This resistor is not stable with respect to the voltage drops you are reporting
Your new tubes installed made no difference
what i personally know is that this resistor is electrically located in the same spot that gave me worries,,, and i was never able to hold my finger on the proper wattage sized resistor for more than 3 actual seconds. the radio continued to work with the OEM recommended resistor that i installed but prior repair man work showed that keeping this resistor under the chassis was radiating heat on various near by parts and actually inducing a melting look to the bottom of my 5y3 tube socket. my only solution was to relocate it out from under the chassis and integrate some sort of over kill wattage value of a calibrated resistance with a fabri-cobbled heat sync. to be fair, the main reasons i had troubles i think was that my push/pulls were runnin' a tad high in voltage,, so i calibrated this resistor to get the push voltage down, which forced my hand to a higher wattage resistor.
what we dont know is the actual resistance of R100/127 when its cool - no load
What we dont know is the actuall resistance of the R100/127 when it is hot - no load
i am guilty of over complicated things just because i turn over as many stones as i can to make this stuff future proof,, i dont like wasting time either.
what i suggest............
de-solder the side of R100/127 connected to the 5y3 - 8.
place your***ANALOG*** ammeter in series there.
Power up and observe the needle deflection and possibly get actual visual amp draw changes based on:
-time
-band switch selection
-wiggle testing of various pieces parts while the BS is in either FM or AM or Sw
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